Wardour Street is celebrated as one of London’s night-owl
alleys. Its selection of clubs and eateries are legendary so it’s no
surprise that it also hosts one of the world’s few computerised
restaurants. No, a robot doesn’t make the food and each table isn’t
supplied with a microwave. Your table is, however, equipped with an
interactive menu, ordering system, webcam of the chefs (that’s how you
know they are not robots), and computer games.
This all sounds rather jolly to the prospective diner but it isn’t
exactly music, computer generated or 
otherwise, to
the ears of an ageing restaurant reviewer. Call me cynical, but it
starts alarm bells. For what is all this technology compensating? Are
these interactive tabletops merely a distraction from food that would
likely be over-priced and under-done? Would our meal be foil-wrapped or
reconstituted, vitamin-enriched space pouches? Only time would tell.
Inamo is a small restaurant with a basement bar. It already has a
reputation for innovation as the passers-by confirmed. In fact they
didn’t pass by. They stopped and whipped out the cameras. That’s gotta
be a first. Will we diners find our visages on the front of the Osaka
Daily Worker?
It’s a restaurant with the ambience of a nightclub. We arrived at 6pm
and the place was already half full so it also appeals, evidently, to
office workers and tourists in the know. The dining area is furnished
with the intriguing tables, which at first glance seem quite ordinary.
On further inspection one notices that the colourful tablecloths are
projected from what look like industrial ventilators on the ceiling. A
taste of what was in store.
We settled ourselves at our table, or should we call it a terminal? We
were introduced to the workings of the interactive
table/waiter/menu/gaming console/taxi rank and then we were left to
fiddle. Yes, that’s what one does for a while. A tap here, a delete
there and we were ready to tailor our evening. Perhaps a change of
ambience. A delicate, pale blue Japanese motif seemed in order. My
companion and I then each ordered our dishes from our independent
menus. It’s possible to hail a 3-dimensional waiter if the
computer-illiterate among you start to panic. But the prospect of the
food at Inamo was causing me more panic than the over-sized mouse pad.
In truth I had no need to worry. Navishen Mudaly (ex Zuma, Indo-Jin,
and Prism) is the head chef at Inamo. He is considered by some to be
one of the country's top Oriental fusion chefs. Yes, it’s undoubtedly a
themed restaurant but thankfully the quality of food has not been a
victim. The dishes not only looked superb, they tasted authentic and
would not have been out of place in a restaurant with linen. The
only thing that seemed to cause a bit of confusion with guests was the
large, round, white, plastic disc. Was it a plate or a place mat? Some
Brazilian diners decanted food onto this, whilst other visitors ate
directly from the serving dishes. Not sure if there is yet an
established etiquette for cyber-service.
Our food arrived just a few interactive games later. Thai Beef Salad
was as good as I have had in even the best Thai restaurants in London.
It was amazingly good value being only £8.00 for a generous
plateful of tender and flavourful meat served with a tangy chilli som
tam dressing. This should be a signature dish.
Then there were:
Seared Scallops, £6.75, thinly sliced with a yuzu and wasabi
dressing. These were sweet and cooked to opaque perfection.
Unagi Nigiri, £5.75, 3 pieces of eel nigiri sushi was my
favourite of all the small dishes. I love eel and this particular dish
presents it at its rich best. Simple with the traditional wasabi and
ginger.
Baby Crispy Prawns, £7.00, lightly battered, served with a
Thai mango relish was the favourite dish of my companion and our
waiter. The presentation was attractive and the seafood was moreish.
Crunchy coating with no excess oil.
Salmon and Avocado Ceviche, £6.50, diced salmon and avocado
in a marinated citrus and chilli salad was light and refreshing. A
lovely dish for a hot summer evening.
I am not a sake connoisseur but I’ll choose that rather than wine when
eating Japanese or even Pan-Asian food. I ordered Takara ginjo shin
which is one of the several sakes served hot. I used to think that all
sake was designed to be served that way but the majority of restaurants
now have a good selection of both hot and cold. I would still suggest
you try the warmed version. Takara ginjo shin is well worth
experiencing with sushi of any kind.
Inamo is a surprisingly good restaurant. I would go there even if there
was a breakdown in cyber space. It’s a fascinating eatery but it’s not
relying on novelty to encourage business. We noticed regulars here in a
part of London which has a wealth of choice. It’s doing well and will
continue to do so as long as the quality of food does not diminish.
Opening Times:
Mon-Thu 12pm - 11.30pm
Fri-Sat 12pm - 12am
Sun 12pm - 10.30pm
Restaurant review: Inamo
134-136 Wardour Street,
Soho, London,
W1F 8ZP
Phone 020 7851 7051
reservations@inamo-restaurant.com
There are lots of sushi bars in London but you will find
surprisingly few reviewed here. Well, to be honest I have visited quite
a few but the majority have been disappointing. Poor quality
ingredients or, even worse, good quality ingredients ruined. Meagre
portions carelessly presented have been the rule rather than the
exception.
I have been rather dragging my feet regarding Ichi Sushi and Sashimi
Bar. I hate having to give the PR company, and indeed the chef, bad
news. But, thank goodness, my worries were for once unfounded. Nothing
disappoints at Ichi (pronounced eechi).
The location is remarkable and the view is a stunner. Take the
Underground to Westminster and walk across the bridge. You will have
the London Eye and County Hall in front, as well as your destination,
The Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel. Ichi Sushi and Sashimi Bar is
on the 1st floor next to a vibrant and popular cocktail bar.
This is a small restaurant with seating at the sushi bar for those who
want a glimpse of Head Chef Okamoto Sadayuki working his slicing magic.
Tables accommodate those who want a less lofty perch, and a lucky few
might be able to grab the best table in the restaurant. This small
vantage point offers views on what would have been behind you on your
walk across Westminster Bridge. The tower of Big Ben (yes, dear
tourist, it’s the bell that’s called Big Ben) and the Houses of
Parliament. Their gothic facades are, in my opinion, at their best at
night when they are bathed in golden light.
All sushi bars have Sake but Ichi makes an effort. They offer a
changing menu of sakes that can be enjoyed at room temperature or
warmed. There are usually a couple of grain spirits as well, that are
interesting but best served with a mixer for a unique Japanese cocktail.
They have sakes here for those who love that particular and
characteristic flavour, but I would suggest trying Shockikubai Migori
for those who want a gentle introduction to this iconic beverage. It’s
soft with a suspicion of fruit. The percentage shown next to the name
of the sake on the menu isn’t an indication of its alcoholic content.
Sake rice is polished before it is used in brewing; the percentage
figure tells the buyer how much remains of the rice after the polishing
process.
Scallops Jalapeño was our starter. Sliced scallops with Momiji
(paprika) on top, with a delicate flavour of char from the grill –
perfectly cooked, rather than being rubbery which is more often the
result in less fastidious restaurants. These were garnished with mizuna
(Japanese brassica, popular for stir-fries or garnish; it is also
called Kyona or potherb mustard) served with lots of hot and spicy
Jalapeño sauce. A beautiful presentation and a dish that makes
the best of this shellfish.
Chef Okamoto offers all the usual suspects – California rolls, sushi
rolls, hand rolls and miso soup – but I would set him apart for most
other Japanese chefs: his attention to detail is admirable. Wasabi is
traditional and ubiquitous in every Japanese restaurant. It can be
purchased in powder form or in a paste made from the aforementioned
powder; but this chef uses fresh wasabi. There are very few restaurants
in London that go to the trouble of using the fresh root and it is
rather different and well worth trying.
If you are unfamiliar with sushi and the like then order from the
platter sections. We chose The Sushi Nigiri Platter and the Sashimi
Platter and these both were showcases for the chef’s evident skill. The
secret is simple – good knife skills partnered with an eye for
aesthetics.
Desserts here are light and predictably attractive. My guest ordered
the almond mousse. This had a topping of red beans that added texture
and a hint of the East. A sweet and delicious end to a delightful meal.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar is one of the few Japanese restaurants in
London to which I would be happy to return. Simple ingredients elevated
to give the diner a memorable culinary experience ...and don’t forget
the view.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
London
SE1 7UT
Reservations: +44 (0)20 7620 7272
Email: reservations@ichisushi.co.uk
Opening Times
Lunch
Monday-Sunday 12:00-3:00pm
Dinner
Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30pm
A decade ago there were few Japanese restaurants in the
UK. It was partly due to the fact that we hadn’t had the close ties
with Japan, as have the USA and Australia; but it seems that a corner
of London has a history of Japanese cultural exchange and now it’s
developed to include all things culinary as well.
From 1885 to 1887, as a result of the opening of trade between Britain
and the Far East, there was an exhibition of Japanese culture at
Humphreys' Hall in Knightsbridge. The event showcased a traditional
Japanese village. Japanese craftsmen demonstrated the art of their
homeland. A break for a cuppa at the Japanese tea-house was evidently
popular.
The Knightsbridge branch of Chisou opened in November 2010. It might
not replicate that tea-house but it does have a lot more authentic
charm than many other Japanese restaurants in London. Most of the
current restaurants have a focus on contemporary design and sushi. Very
nice, but there is more to Japanese cuisine than rolled rice, and there
is more to décor than bright vinyl and chrome.
Chisou Knightsbridge is cosy and unmistakably Japanese. I rather like
dark wood, a few booths, stealable crockery (I didn’t) and an
assumption that you know how to use chopsticks. Everything at Chisou is
refined but not at all intimidating. There is also an upstairs sake bar
to get you in the mood.
This branch has the same basic menu as one would find in the Mayfair
and Chiswick branches but it offers a 
different
selection
of Chef’s specials. There are hot dishes as well as the
expected sushi and sashimi. They are unsurprisingly fish-based but
there are meat and vegetable dishes, too. This is a restaurant that
will introduce you to a greater variety of traditional Japanese food
than will other restaurants of the same ethnic persuasion.
There is a creditable drinks list here, including seventy sakes from
all over Japan, some of them being exclusive to London. Sake is
regularly described as rice wine but, unlike the wine that one would
make from grapes, sake is produced via a brewing method similar to that
of beer. The difference in alcohol content between wine, beer and sake
is that table wine usually has 8 to 14% alcohol, beer has 3 to 6%,
whilst sake has 12 to 18% alcohol. It’s strong but can taste
deceptively mellow.
In Japan sake is served chilled, at room temperature, or warm,
depending on the custom of the drinker, the quality of the sake, and
the weather. Chisou offers sake to try at all temperatures. The best
quality sake is never consumed hot because it’s considered that the
flavour would be impaired; and there are some very good sakes at Chisou.
Sake is usually drunk from traditional small 
cups
called
o choko. These are stemless and usually ceramic, and many have
become collectors’ items. They were preferred as there was less chance
of them being upturned by the swinging sleeves of those wearing
elaborate kimonos. OK, we were wearing blouses with no droopy bits but
our sake was poured from a glass decanter (integral ice holder) into
low, shallow glasses – elegant, practical and adding still further to
the classic ambiance. If you don’t know much about sake then ask for
assistance – it has a very particular flavour so it might be wise to
select something fragrant and mild. The server will recommend a sake to
complement your food.
It’s a large menu that will give the diner an opportunity to try
something different, and it would be a shame to stick to the regular
Japanese standards, though even those are very good here. Thin-sliced
octopus with fresh pickled wasabi was the first of our starters. A
generous portion of cephalopod mollusc that was spiked with real wasabi
rather than the more usual reconstituted powder. This is dynamite and a
dab ’ll do ya unless your sinuses need serious clearing. Be modest with
your wasabi smearing and you will be able to appreciate not only heat
but a fresh and unique flavour.
Sushi and sashimi are on every Japanese menu but they are 
presented
in
fine fashion at Chisou. Each plate has impact and the fish is sliced
in substantial tranches to allow the diner to savour both flavour and
texture. The marinated eel and mackerel are unmissable. They are
mahogany-lacquered nuggets that act as an agreeable foil for the
sweetness of many of the other fishes.
Grilled Butter Fish served in spicy yuzu pepper sauce and topped with
shredded cayenne pepper is a meaty plateful. You will likely have been
introduced to butter fish as sushi or sashimi where it truly shows the
origin of its name. The texture is silky and, yes, almost buttery; the
same fish becomes flaky like cod when it’s cooked. The pepper sauce
adds much to the flavour of the whole dish.
Wagyu Steak Teriyaki is a must-try meat dish at Chisou. They use
Chilean wagyu rib-eye steak, pan-fried in teriyaki butter sauce served
with shiitake and shimeji mushrooms. The meat from wagyu cattle is
known worldwide for its characteristic marbling, a natural flavour from
that well-distributed fat. It’s tender and juicy and memorable.
Chisou in Knightsbridge is special. I haven’t eaten in the Mayfair and
Chiswick branches but I would hope that they would be of the same high
standard. This is Japanese food over which to linger. Appreciate the
quality and freshness, and sip some sake.
Chisou Knightsbridge
31 Beauchamp Place
London SW3 1NU
Phone: 020 3155 0005
Visit Chisou here
Inamo is the brainchild, more accurately brain
children, of owners Danny Potter and Noel Hunwick, who met when they
were
undergraduates at Oxford. Inamo is a pioneering Oriental fusion
restaurant and
bar concept. The Inamo Restaurant (Soho) had the interactive tabletops
as its
unique
selling point. The overhead projectors provide a changeable
cyber-tablecloth as
well as direct food and drink ordering. Your dishes are delivered by a
human
and help is on hand should your digital ineptitude result in a request
for 25
portions of Crispy Five Spiced Pork Belly and a pot of green tea.
Following the success of the Soho
original there is
now a second restaurant, on the former St Alban site on Regent Street –
a prime
location for a Japanese restaurant in a parade that has several shops
and
restaurants of the same ethnic persuasion. With a total capacity of 300
and spanning
a colossal 8,000 ft², the venue could have had all the charm of an
aircraft hangar.
It has taken thoughtful design to make this restaurant feel intimate.
The Soho branch was unique and fun
but St. James is
Inamo all growed up. Yes there is still the techy element but it’s
upstaged by
the decor. It reminds one of walking through a glade of bamboo. OK, so
not many
of us can boast of having had such an experience, but we can imagine.
Chunky
stands of straw-coloured bamboo act as dividers, while movable screens
offer
flexibility – a corner for a romantic dinner, a space for an after-work
gathering.
There are a further two private
dining rooms which can
seat up to 16 each, where one can have a more 
personally
tailored
dining
experience and even bring along one’s own music. Perhaps those tunes
should
reflect the ethnic style of the restaurant. Snatches from the Japanese
classics
rather than J-pop or, heaven forbid, Abba.
The bar at Inamo St James is striking
and accommodates
not only cocktail preparation but that of sushi and sashimi and the
like. Two
deft chefs prepare your food to order. It’s an area in which to
congregate
before moving to your table.
The sophisticated fusion menu has
influences from
Japan, China, Thailand, and Korea. Small dishes can be ordered like
oriental
tapas. You can take your time and graze, the interactive menu lets the
diner
pick and order individual dishes at will. Allow your meal to evolve.
We settled at the sushi bar and
watched as our food was prepared. We were taken by the new dishes on
offer. Black
Bean Tuna – seared tuna coated in black bean and wasabi, served
on
pickled
mouli with cucumber miso dressing – was a flavourful delight. I must
admit that
I often find cold Japanese fish dishes to be bland, but this one hit
all the
right textural and taste notes.
Unagi Maki – grilled eel and avocado
maki wrapped
in chives – is another must-try from the Small Dish section. Eel is a
popular
oily fish and it’s a shame we don’t find it more often on Western
menus. It
seems to be a staple in Japanese restaurants so I usually take
advantage.
Beef Buri Bop – a traditional
Japanese rice dish
served in a hot metal casserole with garlic soy, ginger sauce and
rib-eye steak
– was the star of the evening. There is an element of theatre
surrounding this
dish. A human arrives with your cast-iron vessel. He removes the lid
with a
flourish to reveal a mound of rice with an egg yolk returning one’s
gaze like a
jaundiced Cyclops. There is a garnish of almost raw meat and a small
jug of
sauce which is poured around the rice. The contents of the pot are then
mixed
with a few stirs and scrapes to reveal golden rice crust on the bottom.
The egg
and the meat cook on the hot metal and a delicious 
aroma rises
from this
substantial dish.
If you loved the Soho Inamo then you
will be
equally pleased with the St James sister restaurant. If you didn’t like
Inamo
Soho then do try St James. It has the same fascinating selection of
dishes but
the ambiance is a world away. It has a focus on style and it’s achieved
that
very well.
Opening times:
Mon-Sun
Lunch 12.00-17.00
Dinner 17.00-00.30
Inamo
4-12 Regent Street, London SW1Y 4PE
For reservations phone: 020 7484 0500
For private event bookings phone: 020
7104 2040
Email: reservations@inamo-stjames.com
Visit Inamo St James
here
