All you regular readers will know how I have waxed lyrical
about other books by Kentaro Kobyashi and this one
will be no exception. Veggie Haven from the Easy Japanese Cooking
series has all the characteristics which helped to make Donburi Mania
and Noodle Comfort so appealing.
Kentaro Kobayashi is a young man with a passion for food and not just
Japanese food. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for the culinary arts. His mantra is “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and has
appeared on television where he showed his skill for making delicious
food with little effort.
I like this man’s style. Kentaro continues to present us with
delightful food with a twist. Veggie Haven has Japanese elements but it
isn’t a traditional Japanese cookbook. I suspect this might be the way
modern Japanese eat at home: we in the West have embraced Chinese and
Indian food, and it’s certain that a Tokyo housewife might similarly
enjoy, as Kentaro suggests, a hearty potato gratin or a
deliciously-garnished pizza. Take the aforementioned pizza and top it
with garlic and anchovies. Use a bought pizza base and you’ll have a
classy lunch, light dinner or nibbles with apero in no time at all.
Some liken tofu to a tasteless bath sponge. Consider it a vehicle for
robust flavours. Sweet and Spicy Fried Tofu is a simple recipe which
offers a tapestry of tang that will convert even a die-hard carnivore.
This is the healthy face of fast food.
The cold weather is here in the northern hemisphere so warming dishes
are the order of the day. The original Chop Suey is said to have
originated in America; Kentaro offers Vegetable Chop Suey. This is a
tasty pot of vegetables and the addition of quail eggs helps to elevate
this dish to something luxurious.
Veggie Haven is an ideal cookbook for novices who want to try something
a bit out of the ordinary. The recipes are clearly written and allow
the cook to arrange things in steps. There might be a collection of 3
ingredients for a sauce that can be mixed before cooking starts.
Perhaps the thickener can be made in advance. For simplicity these are
noted in the ingredient list rather than in the method. No need to be
overwhelmed: the dishes are easy.
In the US Japanese ingredients are readily available - America has had
a closer relationship with Nippon than has Europe. Here, most larger
Asian supermarkets stock Japanese ingredients and there are many
internet sites that will be more than happy to supply you with the
goods.
Kentaro Kobyashi introduces us to his Veggie Haven. This will be a
‘must read’ not only for Japanese food lovers but for those who want to
present vegetables with a difference. This might be described as fusion
food but it works for me.
Asian cookbook review: Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc
Price: $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-62-0
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
What vision do we have when we think of Japan? Well, in
truth there will likely be a few images. If we are into 
anime
there will be cartoon characters. The food lovers will doubtless
conjure a plate of sushi, and many others will say that a graceful
geisha will be on their list. Show all of those folks a picture of a
typical Japanese garden and they will all recognise it as being an
iconic emblem of the culture of that country.
In fact there is more than one style of traditional garden and they are
all striking and mostly low maintenance once constructed. There are the
calming and minimalist Zen gardens with carefully-placed rocks adrift
in a sea of precisely-raked gravel or sand. The Tea Garden can be small
but full not only of plants but also structures, and perhaps the sound
of water to set the scene for that important cup of tea. There is an
index of plants that you will be able to find in your local garden
centre, and a list of addresses for the delivery of those huge boulders
as well as bamboo fences.
We are often, in Europe, limited by space and climate so perhaps the
most practical garden is the Courtyard Garden. If you are lucky enough
to have a larger garden then you can build this courtyard into one
corner with views, perhaps, from the sitting room. Create an intimate
space with some plants, rocks and moss which will grow happily in a
small shady area. Don’t think for a moment that this is necessarily an
easy option. You won’t need to mow it every Sunday morning but it will
need to be watered frequently.
A small Zen rock garden might be a weekend project but those other
gardens will evolve and mature with time. Serene Gardens – creating
Japanese design and detail in the Western garden, is a manual of
practical advice and ideas to enable you to turn your dream into
reality.
Asian book review: Serene Gardens
Author: Yoko Kawaguchi
Published by: New Holland
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-916-2
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
This is an ancient practice that seems to be very trendy
now in Europe. I first came across it when a friend 
arrived from
Marseille. She is a lady of impeccable taste and owns a shop filled
with stylish and interesting goods. I had high hopes of a classy gift
and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this square of material.
“Nice,” I said, with as much enthusiasm as this confused reviewer could
muster. “Just what I wanted,” I lied, but thankfully help and an
explanation was at hand before I contemplated saying “This would make
an exemplary family heirloom.”
Furoshiki is, just as the title implies, the ancient art of wrapping
with fabric. A square of material can wrap all manner of things as well
as becoming, with the use of some deft knotting, a handbag or a
shoulder bag.
Gone are the days when we could go to any supermarket and expect a
plastic bag for free. Many people choose to take along their own fabric
bag instead of adding to landfill. A medium Furoshiki bag can hold all
that a regular plastic bag could, and will look considerably more
exotic. All the knots needed for a shopping bag, a backpack, a bottle
carrier and a book bag are illustrated, and with a little practice you
will be going out with a handbag and returning with a shopping bag,
with just a little re-knotting mid-outing.
Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric is a unique book for those
who want to be ahead of the trend. Nothing much to buy – just hem some
squares of material and you have versatile bags that you can coordinate
with your equally trendy (does anyone really use that word these days?)
clothes.
Book review: Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric
Author: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Published by: New Holland
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-816-5
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
You can travel to many countries and get by without a guidebook. You might get lost, you might wish you
had the address of a hotel that had sheets on the beds, and you might
possibly even regret not taking a packed lunch... but you’ll get by.
Japan is a bit more difficult to negotiate without a bit of
professional advice.
Japan is full of contradiction and enigma. It’s ultra modern in so many
ways but it clings to its traditions. It has a matter-of-fact attitude
to nudity in the communal bath houses but remains conservative in
matters of morals. It’s a country that has embraced western-style fast
food but offers death-dicing fish dishes and live octopus. Comic books
are celebrated but religious festivals and rituals are still practised
even by the young, who will pray for good exam results (although I
expect lots of western students have secretly done the same).
This is a country that has caused anxiety in many a visitor. It’s not
the threat of violence or antisocial behaviour (less likely here than
most other countries) it’s the fear of making a social gaff, of
offending a host or a colleague. Japan – Eyewitness Travel goes some
way to steering you through the problems you might encounter when
meeting the locals. There are few rules to remember but it’s a good
idea to know what they are before you land in Tokyo.
The Japanese are polite and understanding of foreign visitors but
you’ll be less embarrassed if you can conform to the general norm of
behaviour. Take shoes for example... or rather take shoes off. You’ll
be able to tell when removing shoes is appropriate. There will likely
be several pairs of empty ones by a door and probably a pair of
slippers as well. If in doubt... watch what others do.
Japan – Eyewitness Travel doesn’t leave much to chance. Everything is
discussed, from dining etiquette to bathing etiquette. You might still
feel a little out of place but at least this book will enable you to
interact with the Japanese and leave a positive impression. You’ll
learn about culture, history and religion and be able to make your own
travel itinerary. The maps are superb and the photography is marvellous.
You can read a pile of books on Japan before you go. One of them should
be Japan – Eyewitness Travel. You’ll only want to take one so let it be
one that will introduce you to every region of this lovely country,
that will offer dates of festivals, addresses of restaurants, and a
great selection of hotels. Most importantly it will offer support to
enable you to feel comfortable with this unfamiliar culture. This book
will whet your appetite for the trip.
Japan – Eyewitness Travel
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-1221-9
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
This restaurant is the haunt of many regulars who, if they
are sensible, will not be spreading the word. Who
wants to find their favourite eatery fully booked every night of the
week? There is a danger that Tsunami will be... or at least should be.
If I was a selfish reviewer (and bearing in mind I want to return
often) I would be carelessly forgetting to include the name of the
restaurant or perhaps I might consider a misspelling to put you off the
scent of this gem.
Tsunami is at the quiet end of Charlotte Street. It’s just a stone’s
throw from Goodge Street station but this is a tranquil spot away from
the rush of Tottenham Court Road.
It isn’t a huge restaurant. A narrow front leads to a wider area which
is cosy and welcoming. The walls curve into the ceiling giving an
agreeable intimate effect. The décor is minimalist without being
too Zen or stark, and polished walls reflect light with a blossom motif
in gold. The restaurant hints at traditional Japan but avoids the
too-themed design of many a lesser establishment. Even the door handles
give the impression of style.
It’s the attention to detail that is remarkable. The waiting staff are
knowledgeable and engaging and take evident pride in their work. The
presentation of each dish would not have been out of place in a 5-star
restaurant. Each serving dish was different and thoughtfully chosen and
even the paper liner for fried food was folded in the classic manner.
Nasu Goma (Grilled Aubergine with Sesame Paste) were delicious bites of
piping hot pleasure. A marvellously welcoming start to a cold-weather
dining experience. The hot Sake added to the warming comfort. Courgette
Flowers stuffed with blue cheese served with miso dipping sauce
continued the thawing. The tempura was light in both colour and texture
and was a sweet counterpoint to the salty ooziness of the filling.
Moreish, I’d say.
Lamb Cutlets (Organic best end lamb) grilled in Korean kimchi chilli
sauce and served with daikon radish kimchi presented us with the most
tender and flavourful meat. It’s one of the most popular dishes and a
must-try. OK, it might not be the first dish that comes to mind when
visiting a Japanese restaurant but it works.
Yellowtail Sashimi Jalapeno is a visual triumph. Thinly sliced
yellowtail fish with coriander, garlic and finely sliced chilli in yuzu
ponzu sauce was delicate but with a hot and spicy kick. This was
another dish that seemed much favoured by the regulars.
The pièce de resistance (although there were two so I guess they
would be pièces de resistance) was/were firstly the Black Cod
with its sweet glaze. This was melt-in-the-mouth tender and succulent.
It flaked into translucent petals at the slightest pressure of a chop
stick. The second was beef. This wasn’t the Kobe beef of legend: each
cow being massaged and fed beer makes for an amazingly expensive steak.
This was Aberdeen Angus and one could have eaten it with a spoon. If
you are a card-carrying carnivore you’ll not want to miss this. Tsunami
offer two alternatives: Wasabi Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef with
creamed leeks, oriental mushrooms, wasabi pepper sauce and foie gras,
or Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef served with sea urchin and foie gras
butter. Both are good but the foie gras butter adds a touch of creamy
luxury.
The desserts made a memorable finish to a memorable meal. The Chocolate
Fondant was as good as you might find in France. It moved with a
sensual shimmer when poked and that’s a good sign that there really is
some molten chocolate sauce inside rather than the accusing void that I
have been confronted with at other restaurants. The Green Tea ice cream
was vibrant and refreshing and the tangy Crème Brulée
served in a lidded tea mug was a rich and decadent conclusion to a
thoroughly good meal.
Tsunami is a restaurant to which I want to return. A reviewer’s palate
can become jaded after a succession of evenings of food tasting but I
left this restaurant with a skip in my step and renewed enthusiasm.
Tsunami offered quality at affordable prices. I hope no changes are
made. There is nothing to be improved upon and that is a rare accolade.
Restaurant review: Tsunami
Charlotte Street
London W1T 4PY
http://www.tsunamirestaurant.co.uk/westend.html
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
What is a Soseki? It is a who and he was one of Japan's
favourite novelists, Natsume Soseki. He lived in London
over a
hundred years ago, and in the two years he was here he had plenty of
time to miss the taste, sight and sound of home.
Soseki offers an authentic “sight” of Japan in the most magnificently
striking fashion. It truly does encapsulate all that we would expect of
the Japan of a couple of centuries past. The ground floor entrance
might be contemporary and anonymous but as one ascends the single
flight of stairs one is wafted to another world which couldn’t be
further away from the glass and steel of the Gherkin which overlooks it.
The bar is the first truly Japanese element one encounters. It has an
impressive wall of bottles and a strikingly low seating area. This
isn’t a high-stool-swivelling night-clubby drinking hole. It’s tasteful
and charming and introduces one to the still more stunning restaurant.
Soseki have avoided mass-produced beers and wines. They have developed
a considerable range of "pure rice" junmai sake, some Japanese rice
beers (it's the only restaurant in the UK serving Koshihikari Echigo
rice beer and Hitachino red rice ale), and rice shochu. The wines have
been selected specifically to enhance the food rather than overpowering
the delicate flavours.
This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, tatami mats and kimono
fabrics. There are intricate wooden shutters and painted ceiling
panels. I wouldn’t, however, describe Soseki as “themed”; that word
denotes a contrived style. There is nothing that seems artificial here.
It’s more transported than themed. More engaging than engineered. This
is the real thing and Natsume Soseki would have felt quite at home.
We were shown to our dining cabin. Yes, indeed, a small raised room at
the end of the restaurant. There are two compartments inside this cosy
and intimate space. The first holds half a dozen guests and the second
was our nest for two for the evening. A calm vantage point to
watch the sushi preparation area and our fellow diners. Many of those
guests were themselves Japanese: ex-patriots are a reassuring sign when
one is looking for authenticity of any ethnic cuisine.
We settled ourselves in our cocoon of a booth and perused the bill of
fare. The menu at Soseki is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of
'kaiseki-kappo' or Japan’s haute cuisine. This fashion of cooking
originated in celebrated restaurants in 19th century Osaka. But unlike
European haute cuisine, the Japanese rely solely on light and fresh
ingredients and outstanding presentation. No heavy and cream-laden
sauces here.
Perhaps it’s not so much a menu as a suggestion of courses of different
cooking styles. The main ingredients are what’s best that day. The
finest quality fish from sustainable sources. Soseki has received
numerous awards including the prestigious Green Apple Award for the
Environment, and the RSPCA Award for Animal Welfare. You can enjoy the
best south-coast seafood without guilt. The use of seasonal fruit and
vegetables ensures that the dishes change often. One could visit
frequently and find new culinary creations to tempt.
Sakizuke appetizer was a confection of quail, both egg and flesh. A
punch of chilli heat was unexpected but delicious. The shimmer of gold
leaf added to the impression of opulence and held great promise for the
rest of the meal.
Wan Mono Soup served in a lidded lacquered bowl had great flavour.
Sashimi was a collection of raw fish and in this case salmon,
yellowtail, sea bass and sole. A simple dish which relies on quality
for its success.
Mushimono will be your steamed dish and this evening it was savoury
custard. This was a triumph of texture and subtle taste. Served in a
lidded ceramic pot resembling a small boulder - thoughtful and amusing.
Yakimono, a grilled dish, was tender slices of lamb with aubergine,
asparagus and edamame beans. You’ll not find 
better
lamb than this: still pink and juicy and with plenty of flavour from
the flame. Memorable.
Agemono is a deep-fried dish comprising fish and vegetables with a
dipping sauce. The battered foods were clean-tasting with a perfect
crunch. Served on traditionally-folded paper mimicking white mountain
peaks silhouetted against the black pottery. Comforting.
The Palate Cleanser today was a small shallow glass bowl of sweet and
refreshing melon juice. The drinking vessel was presented resting in a
wooden dovetailed box. The authentic cup of choice for sake, I believe.
Nigiri and Maki Sushi was a beautiful presentation of rice and fish in
all its guises. A traditional platter of food that was uncommonly good
and served with refreshing salad, flavourful miso and pickles. A
surprisingly substantial conclusion to the main courses.
Dessert of fresh fruit and Japanese-inspired ice cream served in a
martini glass was welcome and a great counterpoint to the seafood,
wasabi and soy sauce of previous dishes. Chocolates
made at Soseki will soon be on the sweets menu. Another indication of
the Soseki attention to
detail. Those specific chocolates might change but be assured that they
will all be remarkable.
We arrived as exhausted westerners and felt almost clumsy in the
refined Soseki environment. We were amazed but not intimidated. We left
with bows to the waiting staff and chefs. Relaxed, impressed and much
the richer for the experience. This might not be the cheapest Japanese
food around but I venture to suggest that it’s value for money. We will
return and sit at the sushi bar, enjoy a flask of fine sake and unwind
anew. I cannot fault Soseki in any regard. It’s conveniently situated
but easily overlooked. Make the effort to seek it out at the foot of
the Gherkin. I promise you will not be disappointed.
Soseki Japanese Restaurant
20 Bury Street, 1F, London EC3A 5AX
Tel: 020 7621 9211
Fax: 020 7621 9210
Opening times:
Lunch Monday to Friday Midday - 2.30pm
Dinner Monday to Friday 6 - 10pm
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy the experience. For me,
it’s all about the food: a themed restaurant makes me suspicious. Why
is this diner being distracted? Something wrong in the kitchen? Iffy
ingredients, perhaps?
Yes, Itsu is very definitely themed. It has moving food. Revolving
dishes. No, the waiters don’t spin plates for the 
amusement
of
the
guests,
there
is
a
conveyor
belt
which carries food past the
assembled and seated company. There are still waiting staff who will
escort you to your seat at either kitchen carousel or comfy banquette.
Those same Itsu employees will take your drinks order, explain the
method of food selection, and they will whisk away the empties.
This turned out to be one of the most laid-back and chilled lunchtimes
I have spent in a long while. I now realise why this style of dining
really works. It’s the ideal spot for lone lunchers – those who have
their dietary horizons set somewhat higher than a curly sandwich or a
sugar-laden muffin. I have never felt comfortable eating alone and I
know many others who have the same inhibition. Itsu provides an
environment of anonymity. One can find a place at the raised kitchen
carousel, watch the food preparation for diversion and even engage in
witty conversation with the black-clad chefs, who are more than happy
to customise your selection with a little extra ginger, a ring or two
of additional chilli. 
There
is
a
first-floor
dining
room
which
has
a
more formal but quirky
atmosphere. Armchairs, mirrors and a goat’s head all help to make this
a sought-after venue for those who want to enjoy Itsu food in a
sophisticated environment.
I have said that the food is, for me, the most important part of
any
restaurant
visit.
Itsu
did
not
disappoint.
This
is quality food and
the presentation is faultless. It doesn’t come fresher or faster than
this. One sees the chefs chop and plate the dishes. They are placed on
the moving belt and all you need to do is make your choice from a wide
range of fish, meat and vegetable offerings.
Perhaps those dishes could be more accurately described as plates, for
that’s just what they are: saucer-sized plates with
coloured rims which indicate the cost of that item. The food meanders
by with the saucers balanced on name-emblazoned pedestals. Chop-sticks,
serviettes, spoons, wasabe and soy sauce are all to hand, so nothing
more to do than grab the food and enjoy.
That food is fresh, well-flavoured and delicious. Visit with a
friend and you’ll be able to share many of the dishes. My
guest chose to start his meal with something other
than the conveyor-belt fare. Yes, there is a selection
of hot favourites, like tempura. Itsu has a “famous” Chicken and
Coconut Soup. It’s the colour of peanut butter but a rich and warming
flavour which is truly quite outstanding. A great start to a meal on
those days when the sun refuses to put in an appearance. There is also
the traditional Miso Soup for less than £2.00 for a serving.
One of the best value plates here is the Fine Green Bean and Kombu
Roll. Once again they didn’t breach the £2.00 barrier. These two
hearty rounds of rice and vegetables were attractive and delicious and
you would walk away pounds poorer if you ordered them in any other
Japanese restaurant. These were one of the bargain white-rim options.
We meandered through half a dozen or so plates of various styles of
rice, fish and vegetable confections. Those passing dishes are
enticing. The Salmon Sushi was fresh and substantial. The Crab
California Maki Roll is well-worth trying; but the stars of the
carousel were the two Vietnamese dishes. These were both striking to
behold and generous of
filling. The Crystal Roll with Fresh Crab was delicate and light. The
Crystal Roll with Roast Duck should be a signature dish: the meat was
cooked and shredded and packed along with vegetables to present a
winning choice.
You might want a pud after sampling the savouries, and Itsu offers some
non-Japanese sweets. My guest selected Seasonal Fruit on White
Chocolate Yoghurt. The red berries were contrasted against snowy
drifts, an idea which I’ll shortly be stealing. A crème
brulée had my name on it. It might not be Japanese and at under
£3.00 it was great value, but it was also one of the best
executed I’d encountered in years . Specks of vanilla bean and a creamy
texture were topped with the traditional crunchy sugar crust. I’ll grab
that again on future visits.
Itsu ticks so many boxes: quality of food, thoughtfully sourced fish
from sustainable stocks, value for money, and a unique ambiance. I
might have arrived with a few cynical thoughts, but I left a convert.
Restaurant opening times:
Mon - Thurs:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm
Fri:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 11pm
Sat: 12 noon to 11pm
Sun & Bank Holidays: 12 noon to 9pm
Itsu, 100 Notting Hill Gate, London W11 3QA
Phone: 020 7229 4016
Fax: 020 7727 5653
For more on Asian cuisine visit Mostly Asian Food
