Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Reasons to visit Japan

Visiting and sharing Japan

Planning a trip to Asia? I can almost guarantee that Japan isn’t first on most people’s destination list, if indeed it is a part of the list at all. We are ignorant of a country that still seems mysterious and exotic, and one which we assume is still inaccessible to a regular tourist.asian restaurant review

Japan isn’t the cheapest of Asian countries to visit, but there is so much to see and do there that won’t cost a Yen, and lots that won’t break the bank. It’s a country that will give plenty of material to any writer or photographer with an eye for a striking vignette, be it a classical stereotype or a hip-hop tableau.

I have had a distant love affair with Japan all my life but have never been there. I think it started with film: epic subtitled productions showing well-armoured Samurai and shy geisha in dazzling kimonos. And then there was the food, that was so different in both ingredient and concept from anything I had eaten before.

Eventually I was able to indulge my passion for Japan in delicious ways. I became a restaurant and cookbook reviewer in London. Yes, it is indeed the job that everybody wants and it has enabled me to learn about and to appreciate Japan’s tastes and traditions. I am mentioned on the covers of two Japanese cookbooks (published in Japan) and it will be a surprise to many that the Japanese do actually cook. They really do eat hot food: there’s more to a Japanese meal than just sushi.

I am now a certified Japanese Sake Sommelier and look forward to introducing that unique beverage to a wider audience. True, it’s a bit like Marmite: you initially either love it or hate it, but it grows on you with practice, and what a pleasure it is to practise.

A tour of Japan would be a dream for any lover of travel. There is so much that is truly unique and enigmatic. It would offer an opportunity to learn about Japan’s culture at close quarters. A land that was closed to us for centuries now presents both charm and adventure for anyone lucky enough to visit. It’s the land of golden falling leaves as well as the Land of the Rising Sun, a country of the young and fashion-conscious as well as the traditional; boxes of bento and frightening Fugu Fish; a silken tapestry of antiquity and modernity waiting to be unrolled.

This is a list of subjects that I would like to cover – things I know a little about and more that I want to learn about. I’d write articles, post video and chatter on social media to share my adventure with others.

1. Japanese food - fine dining to bento

There is so much more to this fascinating cuisine than cold rice around fish. There are complex braises and smoky grilled skewers, and even breakfast is a world away from a slice of toast and a cuppa coffee on the run. There are hand-made noodles and tempting street foods that are only found in Japan. I would want to try bento boxes at railway stations, have a beer and teriyaki beef in a bar, and learn more about Japanese tea.


2. Sake

This is the national beverage and more Europeans are discovering its qualities. Everything from the beautiful but unfathomable labels to the aromatic contents make a bottle of Sake a must-have souvenir of any trip to Japan. But which bottle to buy? A visit to a Sake shop would fascinate and educate.

asian restaurant review

3. Street fashion

Fairy kei is a trend that is a marked change from the ever-popular Goth. It’s characterised by its use of pastel colours and takes its inspiration from accessories from Western toy lines of the 1980s. The costumes will revive memories of My Little Pony, Strawberry Shortcake, and Care Bears. It’s cute and very photogenic if pigtails, leg warmers and pigeon toes are what float your sartorial boat.

4. Film

Japan is famed for its anime. They are those cartoons that have a recognisable wide-eyed style. Manga are the comics that are paper versions of the anime. But it’s the Japanese epic that excites my interest just as much. A trip to a Japanese cinema would be on my list but I would also enjoy an evening just watching TV. One can learn so much from popular TV and, in particular, adverts.

5. Ryokan

A stay at a Ryokan would be a step back in time to the traditional Japan of the Edo period. They present an opportunity to enjoy tatami mats, sliding doors, communal bathing (I’ll devote a whole article to that adventure) and traditional cuisine.

6. Temples

I have visited Buddhist temples in other parts of Asia, and even visitors with no religious conviction cannot fail to be impressed by these buildings. A temple is a must-do and burning an incense stick or two never does any harm.

7. Furoshiki

A couple of years ago a friend gave me a piece of fabric. Very nice but I was surprised that it came with a user’s manual. Furoshiki is a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth and is a multi-use, eco-friendly bag. A couple of knots will give you a bag for groceries, and some folding and a knot will give you a very stylish bag for two bottles (always drink responsibly). There are shops devoted to these cloths that make ideal gifts.

8. Music

Traditional Japanese music is different from Western music in that it is said to be based on the rhythm of breathing rather than mathematical timing! I prefer Enka (Japanese ballad) singing which is much more to Western taste and is enjoying a revival, with the latest Enka star being an Afro-American with a Japanese grandmother! Baggy clothes are his trademark.

9. Transport

Public transport says so much about a culture. We have all heard stories of the horror of the packed Japanese metro and of the comfort of the Bullet Train but we need to reach Japan before we can try those modes of transport. An article about getting there would be handy.

10. Gardens

Japanese garden architecture has had a great influence on European garden design. Those stone lamps and water features can be found all over the world and they are not only lovely to look at, they also have a meaning.

11. History

Japan is a country of contrasts. There is plenty to enchant any lover of classic Japanese history but it’s a land that has developed dramatically over the last eighty years. Japan is noteworthy in that the ancient and the modern coexist. Architecture, music, dress and even food have undergone huge changes. What is Japan 2012?

12. You don’t know what you don’t know

This must be a category included on any travel “reasons to go” list. I have been lucky enough to travel the world but the things that I have often found most fascinating are those that I knew nothing about before my arrival. If you are familiar with a country you take for granted those little things that first made an impression, and they are probably not mentioned in tourist guides – drinking etiquette, how folks pass the time on a train trip, what’s in the equivalent of a Pound shop? Travel with a positive attitude and an open mind and it’s fun and inspiring. Japan truly would be.

Sunday, 26 August 2012

Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking

All of my regular readers will know the name Kentaro Kobayashi. I have reviewed another book of his whichCookbook review Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking had its focus on Donburi, an underrated Japanese dish. He has now turned his attention to the evocative bento box.

Most of us would only have encountered a bento box via our TV screens. They are the stylish packages that are found on Japanese railway stations. No self-respecting documentary about the land of Nippon is complete without the western presenter opening his lunch to discover a savoury and attractive array of rice and accompanying dishes. All very exotic and exciting, but on analysis we are talking food on the go, which needs to be delicious and sustaining.

Kentaro has fond memories of the lunch boxes prepared by his mum. As a growing lad he craved flavourful meat. He was sometimes lucky but whatever the contents of his bento box he was always excited by it, and well fed. He has taken the opportunity with Bento Love to indulge his dream of meat-laden lunch to present some fine recipes, but he has also included dishes that would be craved by both vegetarians and those who prefer fish.

This chef has a knack for recipe selection. He has, once again, chosen dishes that will be tempting for the Japanese reader but equally for those of us who are not so familiar with Japanese food. There is nothing here that is bizarre, no ingredient thought delectable only by the Japanese. This is an accessible and delightful twist on a packed lunch which is a million miles away from a boiled egg sandwich and a bag of salt and vinegar crisps (chips).

The first recipe is that for Deluxe Steak Bento with Simmered Shiitake Mushrooms and Sautéed Watercress. That’s no surprise considering Kentaro's love of protein. The Pork Steak Bento with Sautéed Snap Peas and Shimeji Mushrooms is served with Shiba-style Pickles. Use your favourite European mushroom if you can’t find the shimeji variety, but you will likely find all traditional ingredients in your nearest Asian supermarket or online.

Cashew Chicken Stir-fry is a Chinese classic but is included here because this is a book about contemporary Japanese cooking. It’s a dish that works well for the lunch box, as does Japanese-style Chicken and Potato Curry, and there is even Fish and Chips Bento which includes some broccoli and rice balls.

My favourite recipe is Simmered Croquette Bento. This is a dish made from leftovers but I think it’s worth the effort of cooking from scratch especially for lunch. It’s a moist and flavourful dish and real comfort food. It’s hearty and would be welcome as a substantial lunch on a grey winter’s day.

We all need to eat and we should want to eat well. The credit crunch has forced many to consider a packed lunch from home. It’s a great notion and would save you cash but if that aforementioned lunch is unappetizing then you’ll soon be back to a curly, dry sandwich or a pie and a pint at the nearest pub. Consider some Japanese-inspired bento and be the envy of your colleagues. But don’t forget that you can eat all these dishes at home. They work just as well on a plate as in a box.

Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking is another Kentaro Kobayashi success. Well-written recipes, stunning photography by Hideo Sawai and great value for money. This volume is to be admired but also used. Hope we have many more books from this chef.

Asian cookbook review: Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc.
Price $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-58-3


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Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking

I love Japanese food but seldom have I been offered anything other than tempura and sushi. Now, don’t getcookbook reviews Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking me wrong, I could eat both those lovely dishes every day but there is more to Japanese food than raw fish and battered vegetables. There is Donburi!

What exactly is this donburi? It’s all about rice. Doesn’t sound very interesting, does it? Top that rice with meat and/or vegetables and perhaps a few noodles and often egg, cooked or not. Those garnishes complement the rice which is held in such high esteem by the Japanese.

The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon displayed his flair for food. His motto has always been “easy yet delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on television where he represented the new generation of cooks who wanted taste and texture in no time.

I am a food writer and researcher and frequent eater, and I had oft encountered recipes for Donburi but it was Toronto (no, not Tokyo) that gave me an opportunity to try these tempting dishes for the first time. I chose a chicken donburi which arrived with a sunny egg yolk nestling on top of vegetables and tender meat. I have been searching for such donburi perfection since then.

At last my menu scanning is over and I have help at hand in the guise of Donburi Mania, which houses between its covers 70 recipes for meals that are quick, delicious and healthy. You’ll have dinner ready in the time it takes to cook rice. You can use last night’s leftovers with some fresh vegetables for crunch. It couldn’t be simpler. No exotic equipment needed and more importantly...no special skills.

It’s been difficult for me to select a few recipes to represent donburi. All of Kentaro’s dishes are appealing and encompass a wide range of ingredients. There is plenty here for a vegetarian and for fish lovers but the author will not expect you to follow his ideas meticulously. Donburi is about casual and modern eating so make a few from this book and then invent your own.

Stewed Pork Donburi makes use of cheaper cuts of meat. This recipe is more time-consuming than others as the meat needs to simmer for an hour or so. You don’t have to sit and watch the pork cooking so it hardly constitutes as slaving over a hot stove. The end result of your foreplanning will be a silky and soft preparation that will become a firm favourite. It’s real comfort food that will have you finding excuses to make it.

Chicken Sukiyaki Donburi reminds me of my first encounter. You can use last night’s leftover Sukiyaki (or cook chicken in a sweet soy sauce) so you’ll have a smart meal in less than 20 minutes. The egg yolk might be alarming for the uninitiated but it forms a creamy coating which is rich and luxurious. Be brave.

Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking is the most comprehensive book around covering just this unique and flavourful dish. I’ll be eating my way through each of Kentaro Kobayashi’s tempting recipes.

Asian cookbook review: Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc.
Price: £9.99, $14.95US
ISBN-13: 978-1934287491



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Easy Japanese Cookbook

Easy JapaneseThis isn’t just a large format volume, it’s a seriously large format complete with a CD of traditional Japanese music to listen to while you are either cooking or sitting cross-legged in agony at your coffee table pretending to be eating at a tea house in Nagoya.

Easy Japanese Cookbook is not only seriously large it’s seriously beautiful, with huge colour pictures by William Lingwood. The text is clear and the recipes easy to follow. Each one has preparation time and cooking time clearly marked. It’s a wire-bound cookbook which gives the advantage of staying open on the counter. No need for bottles of Sake balanced at the corners.

The author, Emi Kazuko, has penned several cookbooks (her book Street Cafe Japan was made into a TV series for UK Style) and is no stranger to BBC radio. It’s obvious that she appreciates that Japanese cuisine is new to many of us in the UK. Emi leads us through every aspect from ingredients, cooking methods, equipment and basic recipes to appetizers, main courses, etc. The menu section will tell you all you need to know about putting together an authentic Japanese meal.

Japanese food might not be as familiar to us as, say, Indian or even Thai but just a quick flick through the pages and you’ll see that it is easy. Nothing here takes much hands-on effort. There are a few recipes that demand a few hours marinade time but you don’t have to sit and watch the food as it soaks, do you?

Ginger Pork with Rocket Salad is an old-established and popular dish in Japan. It couldn’t be simpler. It takes 15 minutes to prepare, 10 minutes marinade time and 10 minutes to cook. It won’t break the bank, it’s authentic and it’s a lovely family meal.

Most of us will know the name Sukiyaki. No, not the Japanese pop song released in Japan in 1961 and in the US and UK in 1963 and sung by Kyu Sakamoto, killed in a plane crash in 1985 (Impressed aren’t you?). No, this is the classic dish cooked in a cast iron pan at the table. It’s a delicious combination of beef and vegetables. It couldn’t be easier...your guests will be doing the cooking.

Anyone who wants to try Japanese food at home will find all they need in Easy Japanese Cookbook. It will take away the terror for beginners and supply the more practised with lovely recipes... and some nice music as well.

Easy Japanese Cookbook
Author: Emi Kazuko
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-656-7



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Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex

The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and passion. He started his working life as anjapanese cookbook reiew appetizer rex illustrator but soon displayed his flair for food. (He gets that from his mum who is an award-winning cookbook author.) His motto has always been “easy yet delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on television where he represents the new generation of cooks. His Veggie Haven has been nominated by the Paris Book Fair and Gourmand as one of 2009’s Best Cookbooks of the Year. Not too shabby!

It’s called Easy Japanese Cooking but that might give the impression that it concerns traditional Japanese fare. I prefer to think of it as Easy Contemporary Japanese Cooking. The Japanese, along with the rest of the world, are becoming more global in their food horizons and Kentaro has no prejudice when it comes to introducing Western ingredients into his larder. Appetizer Rex is a volume that shows the acceptable face of fusion cuisine, and does it in a fun way.

Just think of appetizers or hors d’oeuvres and we conjure thoughts of convivial gatherings. These little dishes are not taxing to prepare but choose the right ones to match your guests, along with their drinks, and success is assured. There are no worries about preparing a balanced meal: appetizers are not meals in themselves, they are little ‘amuse-gueules’ as the French would poetically describe them.

Kentaro offers us his usual mix of lively ingredients combined with thoughtful but simple presentation. There are a few recipes that will be somewhat familiar to Western readers – for example, Nachos, Tomato Salsa, and Tomato and Olive Bruschetta are well loved standards, but my advice would be to consider the lesser-known dishes that will be not only delicious but great conversation pieces.

Wasabi Butter Beef will be a winner with the carnivores. A simple dish to prepare but sliced beef always contrives to look luxurious. Ribs with Green Onions will also help to slake manly appetites. Sunny-side Up Beef is a good way of using up leftover Sunday roast. A striking presentation of sauced meat and an egg  yoke.

Fried Rice Balls would be an exotic alternative to crisps (chips). Serve them with some good flavourful Japanese condiments for a healthier but substantial snack. Two-Way Fritters are ideal for those who must have a fried-food fix. They are an agreeable combination of corn, ham and shrimp. They are said to stay crisp even when cooled so a good choice for a drinks party.

My absolute favourite dish will have my dear reader reeling in horror. Whelks! WHELKS? Yes, and you should try them. Kentaro has a Whelk Sauté which has few ingredients, is simple to make and economic as well. I would perhaps counsel that you slice the shellfish rather than leaving them whole. The whelks found off British coasts are large and, I must admit, unattractive. Don’t tell your guests what they are eating and they will love them.

Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex is another winner from Kentaro Kobayashi. He continues to offer dishes that are simple but impressive. Always something unique and stunning. Don’t stop now, Kentaro, I await the next volume.

Asian cookbook review: Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc. New York
Price: $14.95 US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-63-7



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Food of Japan

It’s the winner of a Japan Festival Award ‘for outstanding achievements in furthering the understanding ofFood Of Japan Japanese culture in the United Kingdom’ in 2000. In the same year it was also short-listed for the World Cookbook Awards and the Guild of Food Writers’ Jeremy Round Award for Best First Cookery Book. The author, Shirley Booth, in 2006 was awarded the Japanese Agriculture Minister's Award for Overseas Promotion of Japanese. There was no doubt that this book was going to be interesting.

Shirley has amazing credentials, being not only an award winner but, more importantly, having lived in Japan and taught Japanese cooking there. She seems to know just about everything there is to know about the subject but her addition of historic and personal narrative puts the food into context. It is that conversational but informative style that elevates this book to something more than just another ethnic cookbook.

Japanese food has become more and more popular over the last few years. Japanese restaurants proliferate and chilled counters in supermarkets groan under the weight of pre-packed sushi. The price is often prohibitive and the selection is small. So why don’t we just make Japanese food at home... and something other than sushi?

Well, we could and should but this is a relatively new food trend and we need a bit of coaxing. It’s true that the ingredients are not as readily available in the high street as, say, Indian or Chinese, but I know you have heard of the internet because you are reading this marvellously well-executed review. Just order ingredients online.

There are 200 or so recipes in this volume so there will be plenty to fire the imagination. My advice would be to look through the index and find a dish that you just like the sound of. Make up your mind that you’ll prepare your choice at the weekend and then go to the recipe. It’s unlikely that you’ll find a cooking technique that you have not encountered before and it’s probable that your dish will have familiar ingredients. No excuse not to have a go. Japanese food is famed for being healthy, flavourful and different. We should all be considering our diet and cooking foods that taste good and do us good.

You could start your culinary adventure with Gyoza. These are not strictly Japanese in origin but are popular Chinese dumplings adopted in the same way as Europeans have adopted kebabs. These are easy to make and a good way to disguise cabbage. Chicken Teriyaki is simple to prepare and tasty. I have used the Teriyaki sauce as a marinade for salmon so the recipe can be adapted for non-meat eaters.

One dish that will be popular with westerners will be Gyudon. It is, like so many here, simple with few ingredients but lots of flavour. It’s fried beef and onions with an added sauce of typical Japanese flavours: soy, mirin and ginger. Serve over a bowl of rice and you’ll have satisfied guests.

Food of Japan is a lovely book that is sure to become a classic. Shirley Booth presents what could be an intimidating subject in an accessible and witty fashion. This is a must for anyone who has an interest in Japanese food or culture.

Asian cookbook review: Food of Japan
Author: Shirley Booth - http://www.shirleybooth.co.uk/index.html
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 1-904010-21-0



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Hashi – A Japanese cookery course

I have reviewed many a cookbook and a good number of these have been Japanese, but it’s the first time I have looked up from my half-finished draft to see the author of the object of my labours gracing my TV screen. Reiko Hashimoto is on New British Kitchen and demonstrating sushi. I know that Absolute Press is an amazing publisher but I must add that their timing is impeccable.

Reiko was born in Kyoto to a traditional Japanese family with a
asian cookbook reviewmum who has transmitted her own passion for Japanese cooking and food. Reiko moved to the UK to study but instead of going into a dry and boring profession she became an air hostess. She was based in Hong Kong so had all the culinary exposure that metropolis has to offer. Travelling also gave Reiko the opportunity to broaden her gastronomic horizons and she eventually decided on a career in teaching Japanese cooking.

Reiko moved to London and launched a company called ‘HASHI’ offering Japanese cooking courses and catering Japanese food for dinner parties and events. Reiko has now been teaching for over a decade; she offers classes to raw beginners but also to those who have a little more experience.

Although I mentioned that Reiko demonstrated sushi on the “John Torode Show”, she also presented cooked dishes. Sushi and sashimi are common in the UK these days and many people assume that’s all the Japanese eat. In truth there is a large and tempting array of dishes that are healthy and delicious, and the ingredients are available in supermarkets or online.

Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is a big, bold and brilliant book with a chunky square format. Black-edged pages and heavy title type make this a striking volume. Plenty of photography to give a bit of inspiration to the novice home cook, and the majority of the recipes are surprisingly short.

The recipes here are broad-based and do constitute a cookery course. Those unfamiliar with Japanese dishes can hone their skills on the simple dishes before progressing to those which are a little more demanding, although there is nothing here that would terrify the Western home cook.

My favourite recipe is that for Donburi. This is a bowl of hot rice with a topping – a real dinner dish. The author offers several versions of this popular meal but my pick-of-the-bunch is Oyako-Donburi. It’s chicken cooked in dashi, mirin, sugar and saké and then beaten egg is added. Mild and comforting and a hot meal that even the kids will request. That’s gotta be a reason to buy this book.

Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is one of the most accessible Japanese cookbooks around. Reiko lives in London so she is aware of available ingredients and the tastes of the local population. Her experience as a teacher allows her to engage with the reader and encourage them to have a go. A lovely gift for any Japanese food aficionado.

Asian cookbook review: Hashi – A Japanese cookery course
Author: Reiko Hashimoto
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781906650575


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Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art, by Shizuo Tsuji

The world is shrinking and more of us than ever have taken advantage of travel opportunities. We moveCookbook review Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art with ease around the globe and adopt and adapt culture, lifestyle and food.

Whilst all that is true we could be forgiven for overlooking the impact of Japan’s food on the West. America, in particular, has embraced Japan’s food. The USA has a close relationship with the country and sushi is common. Europe has not had quite that same exposure to Japanese cuisine although larger towns in Britain might sport a brace of Japanese restaurants. It might therefore come as a surprise to know that the Japanese food philosophy has made a great impression on Western eating habits.

Remember Nouvelle Cuisine? That’s French, isn’t it? Well, the name was French but the concept was Japanese. Young French chefs travelled to Japan in the 70s and 80s and were amazed at the simplicity and beauty of its dishes. They translated that to suit the restaurant-going populace of London and Paris... and Nouvelle Cuisine sunk like a very light, Zen and minimalist brick... but the germ of an idea was growing. Chefs now appreciate aesthetics, flavour combinations and freshness of ingredients in a different way.

This 25th anniversary edition of Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art has not been updated and massaged. It stands in its original form with only a new foreword by the celebrated restaurant critic and food writer, Ruth Reichl, and a new preface by Yoshiki Tsuji, son of the author. This book has not been revamped because what was true and valuable a quarter of a century ago remains so.

Shizuo Tsuji graduated with a degree in French literature from Wasada University in Tokyo and then worked as a newspaper reporter. In 1960 he established the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka to train professional chefs. He studied with the greatest chefs in France and was recognised by the French government who awarded him Meilleur Ouvrier for outstanding promotion of French cuisine. He published over 30 books on gastronomy, music, essays and translations.

Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art is considered a masterwork of Japanese cuisine. Nigella Lawson has described it as “...quite the most illuminating text around on Japanese food.” It’s an encyclopaedia of Japanese food but it’s also an absorbing read. The line illustrations demystify what might sound like complex techniques, revealing those techniques to be surprisingly simple. There is not a wealth of expensive equipment to buy although an enthusiast might be driven to acquire some stunning tableware to add a touch of visual authenticity to a Japanese meal.

American home cooks, at least in larger cities, will have no problem in finding the more exotic of ingredients. There are fewer Japanese supermarkets in Europe although many Asian stores carry Japanese products. However there is a good selection of internet sites which offer food products to stock your Japanese store cupboard.

An example of an easy dish made with ingredients found in most large supermarkets is Ginger Pork Sauté (Butaniku Shoga-yaki). This is a delicious and quick dish of pork and shiitake mushrooms cooked with ginger, mirin, sake and soy sauce.

Vegetarians are well catered for in Japan. Bean Curd Dengaku (Tofu Dengaku) are small grilled lollies (popsicles) of tofu with toppings. You might be able to buy the traditional two-pronged forks from specialist shops but a couple of thin wooden kebab picks will work just as well. These are tasty and attractive morsels that will tempt even a Japanese food debutant. Substitute small fish and other seafood or vegetables such as aubergine (eggplant), mushrooms or peppers.

Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art is a classic. It’s considered outstanding by the wise and worthy of the international food industry. It explains the more complex of traditional dishes as well as the uber-simple ones. This is real Japanese cooking that will delight and intrigue both the eyes and the palate.

Asian cookbook review: Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art
Author: Shizuo Tsuji
Published by: Kodanashi International
Price: $45.00US
ISBN 978-4-7700-3049-8



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Japanese Bible

There is no denying the popularity of Japanese food in the UK these days. There has been a proliferation of new restaurants showcasing that cuisine. All of our cities will have some and many have a slew of sushi-peddling establishments, but few offer extensive menus of cooked Japanese food. Even the Japanese do not live by sushi alone. Nice from time to time but boring for both lunch and dinner seven days a week.asian restaurant review

We can easily cook real Japanese food ourselves. The Japanese have cold snowy winters just as we do in Northern Europe and they need hearty and hot fare just like us. This volume offers a good over-view of authentic Japanese cuisine, and the ingredients will mostly be on-hand in your local chain supermarket.

If one still craves cool rice then try Onigiri. These are stuffed rice balls and the equivalent of a sandwich. They are a staple of bento boxes which are sold at every Japanese railway station. They are simple to make and can be filled either with some well-flavoured left-overs or the suggested stuffing of tuna and Japanese mayo. These would be a great addition to an Asian buffet.

Donburi are those bowls of hot rice with various toppings. Prawn Sukiyaki on rice has a mound of garnishes that are light yet flavourful. It’s a complete meal and very attractive. Use the basic recipe but substitute the seafood with thin slices of cooked beef or a selection of vegetables. Fried Pork Cutlet might not sound very Japanese but in fact it’s very popular and it makes a good topping. Donburi is traditional and versatile.

Green Tea Ice-cream is my pick of the book. Tea in all its guises is more popular than ever these days. We have enjoyed a revival in the classic English afternoon tea, but it’s the health properties that have given these leaves a boost. Japanese green tea has a distinctive agreeable taste and imparts a beautiful pistachio-green colour when used to infuse milk-based dishes. Green Tea Ice Cream makes a fitting end to a Japanese meal, where presentation is key to success. Its delicate flavour calms the palate, and a simple mound of this could persuade many of us down the Zen path. Nothing fussy here: few ingredients providing a confection that is as correct as an understated but well-crafted Ikebana – flower arrangement...and made in your very own understated IKEA-inspired kitchen.

Japanese food might have been hi-jacked by fast conveyor-belt sushi shops, and they do have their place in the food chain, but we can prepare authentic Japanese food at home. No need for special knives or crockery, and the Japanese Bible introduces the reader to the dishes that the Japanese would cook for themselves.

Asian cookbook review: Japanese Bible
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN: 978-1-4053-6326-6



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Japanese Home Cooking with Master Chef Murata

You probably won’t recognise the name of the chef unless you are reading this in Japan. It’s no surprise, but our ignorance has everything to do with geography and nothing to do with lack of celebrity or talent on behalf of Chef Murata. He is a much-Michelined restaurant owner/chef as well as being a familiar face on Japanese TV cooking shows. asian cookbook review chef murata

Yoshihiro Murata was born in Kyoto to the family owning the renowned Kikoni restaurant. This serves classic Japanese food, and Yoshihiro is now the third generation to own this restaurant and its two sisters, one in Kyoto and the other in Tokyo. He has a passion for Japanese cuisine and has become its international ambassador.

I love Japanese food but I much prefer the more complex cooked dishes to the ubiquitous sushi and sashimi. These are marvellous foods but I would tend to eat the best raw fish in a trusted restaurant rather than making it myself and having to trust the seafood counter at my local supermarket. Grilled, fried, steamed, simmered dishes are easy to accomplish at home with ingredients commonly found in any high street.

Japanese Home Cooking with Master Chef Murata offers 60 quick, easy and healthy recipes for the Western enthusiast. Some will be unfamiliar but the names of others will ring bells. Perhaps you might even have been fortunate enough to find a Japanese restaurant serving a couple of them. You won’t need to buy any specialist equipment and you won’t need a diploma from the Nagasaki Culinary Institute (is there such a school?) to undertake the preparation. There is nothing here to cause terror.

Shabu-Shabu Hot Pot could not be easier. It’s a one-pot meal constructed, rather than cooked, at the table. It’s a process much like fondue. Start by heating stock in a pot over a burner. Add vegetables according to their cooking times. Allow each guest to cook their own beef. Shabu-shabu is said to be the sound of the aforementioned meat being agitated in the soup. Remove the vegetables to bowls and enjoy with either Ponzu Sauce or Peanut Sauce (recipes here). Another stylish but simple hot dish is Chicken Meatball Hot Pot. It’s finished in minutes and would make a superb starter or warming winter supper. A light and healthy meal.

For those who must have their fix of rice and fish, there are recipes aplenty. Tuna-Mayo Rice Balls make delicious snacks, but for something no more taxing but a little more adventurous try the Seared Rice Balls with Bacon Soy Sauce. Well-flavoured filling encased by cooked rice and then grilled to golden, toasty perfection. One would make a substantial snack ...but who could stop at only one?

This is an inspiring collection of Japanese recipes for the European cook. Fresh ingredients used to make flavourful and comforting meals. The photography by Akira Saito marvellously showcases the finished dishes but it’s a book to use as well as admire.

Asian Cookbook: Japanese Home Cooking with Master Chef Murata
Author: Yoshihiro Murata
Published by: Kodansha International
Price: £13.99
ISBN 978-4-77003132-7



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The Japanese Kitchen

The Japanese KitchenKimiko Barber has produced a book which is bound to become a classic. It’s stunning to look at with a wealth of marvellous photographs by Martin Brigdale which make it appealing to anyone interested in either Japanese food or culture.

The Japanese Kitchen is an encyclopaedia with recipes...or a cookbook with amazing information about Japanese ingredients. Either way it’s a detailed and well-researched volume of 100 ingredients and 200 recipes both classic and contemporary.

Part 1 consists of an introduction to the history and culture of Japan. You’ll want to read this as it puts the food into perspective. Part 2 is all about the ingredients. It’s true that there are some unfamiliar ones here but you’ll find them in many Asian food stores and they will be worth trying.

Japanese dishes are not just raw fish, rice and noodles, although these do play a big part. It’s a complex and sophisticated cuisine but not necessarily difficult to master. There are very few techniques that will be challenging but presentation is important: simple yet striking.

Spring onions might not be the first Japanese ingredient to spring (if you’ll pardon the pun) to mind but here they are used in two simple but typically Japanese recipes. Negi Toro (Spring Onion and Tuna) is one of the most popular fillings and toppings for sushi.  The spring onion and pork stir fry is quick, has few ingredients and would be a delicious dinner served with noodles.

It’s no surprise that there are some delightful seafood dishes. The Japanese are passionate about seafood of every kind and have some of the most exciting and flavourful recipes. Squid with Salmon Roe is light and zesty with lemon. Deep fried squid in batter is a classic and is crisp and succulent, and just right with drinks or as part of a traditional tempura.

There is a list of Japanese food suppliers with addresses, phone numbers and a few web sites. If you can’t find Japanese ingredients near you then you will be able to get them on line. It will be worth taking the trouble just to enjoy a truly different culinary experience.

“An excellent book” says celebrated food writer Jill Dupleix and I wholeheartedly agree. It’s exceptional.

ASian cookbook review: The Japanese Kitchen
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-769-4


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Japanese Pure and Simple

It’s fair to say that Kimiko Barber is the undisputed queen of Japanese cooking in the UK, and this book is just another illustration of why.
Japanese pure and Simple
Japanese Pure and Simple has over 100 health-giving recipes that are simple and flavourful and a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The photographs by Jan Baldwin are gorgeous, giving the large format book an overall feel of elegance.

Kimiko presents Japanese food as nourishing, balanced and seasonal. The fresh ingredients are tinkered with as little as possible to retain nutrients and texture. There is evidently something to be said for that philosophy as the Japanese have the highest life expectancy in the world.

The recipes are divided into various categories such as Soup, Fish, Poultry, Rice etc and they are a marvellous selection, but my favourite dishes are the Japanese Hotpots. These take fondue to new heights of sophistication and have the advantage of being good for you. There is the usual process of cooking raw meats and veggies in a stock but then you are left with a richer and more flavourful broth than you started with. Anyone who has a little space at the end of the Hotpot can finish that broth with the addition of rice or noodles.

Teriyaki dishes are always popular. They are easy to prepare and have that sweet rich flavour that is irresistible. Teriyaki Pork Steak is one of those dishes that you’ll make often as either part of a Japanese meal or served with western vegetables or salads. The ingredients are easy to find and not expensive, and once the sauce is made you can keep it for a while in the fridge. It works equally well with lamb chops but I love it with chicken breasts.

The Japanese are renowned for the exquisite presentation of food and Kimiko has thoughtfully given us some pointers. You don’t need to invest in new crockery although I think that a small Sake flask and cups adds a hint of authenticity. Use your usual plates but don’t pile on the food, rather create landscapes with plenty of space and artful use of garnish. Very Zen!

Kimiko Barber writes books that are full of advice to enable you to prepare truly beautiful but healthy food with surprising ease. Choose the freshest produce and enjoy these delightful dishes.

Asian cookbook review: Japanese Pure and Simple
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-665-6



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The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go

It’s a bento cookbook. But I know for a fact that not everyone in Europe will know exactly what bento is. Most people would have heard the word and will remember that it has something or other to do with Japanese food. Bento isn’t an ingredient, it does not have to be Japanese, and it isn’t necessarily even exotic. Bento is a lunch box.asian cookbook review

Japan is famed for its refined culture. That artistry extends to food and we all know about intricately displayed fish for sashimi, and tightly-rolled and bejewelled sushi, but let’s consider the Japanese equivalent of a curly sandwich. Yes, you are quite right. It doesn’t exist.

Railway stations in Japan offer their customers bento boxes. There are small shops that offer these foods; and mothers and wives send their loved ones from the house with food that will still be tasty after a few hours. Bento is pre-packed lunch, but not often of the cheese-and-pickle and white-sliced variety.

The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go will fire the imagination of those responsible for making the food for meal breaks. Kids will be excited by the contents of their plastic boxes and are far less likely to swap for a packet of jelly beans. The suggestions here offer vibrant flavours and different textures as well as dietary balance.

If we lived in Japan we would have a wide selection of bento boxes to choose from. Two layers and interlocking, single layer with movable dividers, large bento box with individual lidded containers within. The rest of the world, apart from India with its unique tiffin boxes, has a plastic box with a snap-on lid. You will be delighted to know that the regular sandwich box or even an ex-almost-butter box will do. No need to go on a shopping spree to Osaka.

For the moment banish from your mind the thought of sarnies. Consider rice, either fluffy or compressed. How’s about some cool and flavourful noodles, some fresh veggies with a light dressing and some cooked meat with a soy sauce lacquer. Sounds enticing doesn’t it?

An inspiring and rich bento meal listed here is that for Ginger Pork Bento. It’s a hearty meal that would work just as well for supper and served on a plate as it does for noon from a box. The tangy meat is paired with braised new potatoes and there are stir-fried peppers and bean sprouts, cauliflower in mayo, and rice to make this a complete meal. An adult bento if ever there was one.

The most child-friendly compilation here is perhaps the Pan-fried Chicken Nugget Bento. It includes a potato salad and a selection of raw vegetables with a citrus-herb sauce. A healthy meal but fun to eat. An alternative might be the Pork and Shrimp Balls with Onigiri. These are balls of compressed rice and much more practical for little lunchers than negotiating separate grains of rice with chop sticks. No need for cutlery at all.

My favourite recipe from The Just Bento Cookbook is for the Sukiyaki-style Beef Donburi Bento. This is another substantial boxful of meat over rice with a garnish of vegetables. The meat has a sweet yet savoury flavour that is most agreeable even when cold. This version uses snow peas (mange-tout) and daikon, but one could substitute other vegetables which might be more readily available.

The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go is a colourful and attractive volume that will be a boon to anyone who eats a packed lunch every day. These recipes are simple but will offer something a bit more enticing than the usual sandwich and bag of crisps. There is a bento here for every taste. A book full of practical ideas.

Asian cookbook review: The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go
Author: Makiko Itoh
Published by: Kodansha Europe
Price: £13.99
ISBN 9784770031242



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Kitcho - Japan’s ultimate dining experience

Kunio Tokuoka is executive chef of Kyoto Kitcho. He was born in 1960, and is the grandson of Mr. Teiichi Yuki, founder of Kitcho. He became a chef at twenty and was sent to work at Kitcho Arashiyama , the flagship restaurant in Kyoto. The restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars, and Hana Kitcho, another in the group, was awarded one star in 2009.asian cookbook review

The formal Japanese cuisine we are familiar with today can perhaps be traced to those days after the Meiji era - 1868 to 1912. Another suggestion is that it was born from the haute cuisine of ritualized honzen ryori, the traditional tea ceremony of the Momoyama/Edo era of the 16th to 19th century. Kaiseki is a simplified form of honzen ryori and has grown into a meal of many courses that flows with the seasons by using the best of fresh local ingredients. Kitcho is considered by many inside and outside Japan as that country’s leading classic restaurant. Kitcho, the book, allows us a peek into the philosophy of one of the world's most respected practitioners of the stylised art of Japanese food.

Chef Kunio Tokuoka has a formidable reputation although his approach to cooking is straightforward. For the first time, the techniques and history of one of the world's greatest cuisines are presented in stunning fashion. This is without a doubt the most sumptuous book on any cuisine I have ever seen. It will become a treasured tome for any serious chef, a source of endless inspiration for the domestic enthusiast, and a welcome gift for anyone with a love of Japanese perfection. It is nothing short of amazing. Leaf through pages of the best food photography you will ever see. Superb pictures of traditional serving dishes, bowls and architecture. Yes, there are recipes, but this is more the ultimate coffee-table book. It will become your most pawed-over volume for transporting you to an exotic haven of tranquility and culinary contemplation.

Asian cookbook review: Kitcho – Japan’s ultimate dining experience
Author: Kunio Tokuoka
Published by: Kodansha International
Price: £30.00, US $45.00
ISBN 978-4-7700-3122-8



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My Japanese Table

The author is Debra Samuels. Doesn’t sound very Japanese, does it? Well, perhaps not, but her credentials are impeccable as this lady has spent a decade or so living in Japan and learning to cook in home kitchens. She is ideally placed to pen a book for the European market as she appreciates which recipes translate well and which techniques will be new to the reader.london asian restaurant review

Debra has a passion for Japanese food and wants to make it accessible to all of us who are becoming more interested in this fascinating cuisine. There are lots more Japanese restaurants around (it’s a shame that they are of patchy quality) so we have had the chance to try the food for ourselves.

Unfortunately we are led to believe that Japanese food consists of sushi ...or sashimi for those who want to push the envelope. Surely that can’t be all they eat in Japan? No, indeed, my dear inquisitive gastronaut. There are plenty of hot dishes that constitute real meals and will introduce the reader to home cooking from Japan, rather than restaurant standard fare.

Debra does start off with sushi and the like, just to ease her audience into the subject, but there is a tempting rice-based alternative that can be described as the Japanese equivalent of a sandwich. Onigiri are stuffed balls of rice that make ideal picnic snacks or fillings for a Bento box – Japanese packed meals. Debra suggests Spicy Tuna Salad as the stuffing but this would work with any soft full-flavoured meat or fish.

Another Japanese staple is Sweet Soy Beef and Onion Rice Bowl. 500g of beef will provide a substantial meal for 4 people. Just a little marinating time and a bit of wok or frying pan action and you’ll have a flavoursome topping for steamed rice. It’s a family-friendly meal that will appeal to the kids. The grated apple adds a slight sweetness which is unique and delicious.

Asian desserts are always a problem but there are a few delights here that would work well for any type of Asian meal. Cool and refreshing Matcha Ice Cream has a delicate yet distinct taste and acts as a light palate cleanser after Japanese food or even an Indian meal. So easy to make if one owns an ice-cream maker. Matcha is that traditional vivid green tea of Tea Ceremony fame. It’s sold, along with other Japanese specialities, in larger Asian supermarkets.

My Japanese Table is written with the Western housewife in mind. Nothing too taxing here and this book presents recipes that will be welcomed by your family but also by your dinner party guests, who will marvel at your new menus. No need to tell them that you hardly spent any time at all on prep. Go on, be a hero.

Asian cookbook review: My Japanese Table
Author: Debra Samuels
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: £27.50
ISBN 978-4-8053-1118-9


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The Saké Handbook

sake

Saké has become more popular than ever in both restaurants and bars. One can find good quality saké by the bottle and made into cocktails, but there are surprisingly few books in English on the subject of saké and its production. John Gauntner is considered an authority and has penned The Saké Handbook which is an indispensible introduction and buying guide to those who have not had the advantage of a formal sommelier course.

The Saké Handbook describes the history, brewing methods and labels, encouraging the reader to buy a selection of bottles to sample and compare. There is really no substitute for actually drinking saké to discover its complexity. Its distinctive taste is unique but it is now being more readily paired with food, which is bound to be a source of fascination to anyone interested in expanding their epicurean horizons.

The Saké Sommelier Association is a body set up to promote saké throughout the world. They offer a single-day course in London every year to introduce those of us who know nothing about the drink to the world of saké. You will learn its history and the changes of production methods down the ages. Most importantly you will have the chance to sample a dozen or so different styles of saké with a tutor who will guide you through the subtle nuances of each and compare them, to give the student a comprehensive overview of Japan’s national beverage. There are longer courses available for those who want to sit an exam to become certified saké sommeliers. Future dates and times for these courses will be posted here as they are announced.

Isake is an important site for those who want to try some of the best sakés available in the UK http://www.isake.co.uk

The Saké Handbook
Author: John Gauntner
Published by: Tuttle
ISBN 978-0-8048-3425-4

Visit John Gautner’s Saké site here


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Saké

We in the West are becoming more familiar with Saké. There are now many more Japanese restaurants in our cities and all of them will have a drinks menu that will include a saké or two. It’s the Japanese national alcoholic beverage and most people already know that it’s made of rice. asian restaurant review

Yes, it’s called saké in the English-speaking world and in most other countries as well, but in Japan that word refers to every form of alcohol. The Japanese term for this specific drink is Nihonshu which just means "Japanese alcohol".

Saké is an ancient drink that started as more of a food. Rice was first chewed and then fermented. The earliest reference to alcohol in Japan is found in “The Book of Wei” written by Wei Shou from 551 to 554 and is a text in Chinese. Saké is also referred to in the “Kojiki”, written by Ō no Yasumaro at the request of Empress Gemmei, Japan's earliest history document, which dates from around 711. By the Asuka period (from 592 to 710) saké as we know it was being made from the traditional ingredients of rice, water and yellow kōji mould (Aspergillus oryzae). In the Heian period (from 794 to 1185) saké was a drink reserved for religious ceremony and not made for popular consumption.

Saké production was a government monopoly for centuries, but in the 1100s temples were allowed to produce saké, and they became the key producers for the next 500 years.

Sake is regularly described as rice wine but, unlike the wine that one would make from grapes, saké is produced via a brewing method similar to that of beer. The sugar necessary to produce alcohol must first be converted from rice starch. The difference in alcohol content between wine, beer and saké is that table wine usually has 8 to 14% alcohol, beer has 3 to 6%, whilst saké has 12 to 18% alcohol.

During the Meiji Restoration (restoring imperial rule to Japan in 1868), laws allowed anybody set up their own saké breweries. Around 30,000 of them opened across Japan, and most that continued past this era were those operated by wealthy landowners who grew table rice. They would have some of their crop left over at the end of the season and, rather than wasting the grain, they sent it to their breweries to be made into saké.

When in World War II Japan found itself short of rice for saké-making, alcohol was added to increase its volume. As early as the late 17th century it had been discovered that small amounts of alcohol could be added to saké before pressing to extract more flavour from the rice, but during the War pure alcohol and glucose were added, to considerably increase the saké yield. The majority of modern saké is now made with additional alcohol.

In Japan saké is served chilled, at room temperature, or warm, depending on the custom of the drinker, the quality of the sake, and the weather. Warm or hot saké is popular when it’s cold outside and it’s said that heating improves a poor bottle of saké. The best quality saké is never consumed hot because it’s considered that the flavour would be impaired.

Saké is usually drunk from traditional small cups called o choko. These are stemless and usually ceramic, and many have become collectors’ items. They were preferred as there was less chance of them being upturned by the swinging sleeves of those wearing elaborate kimonos. Stemmed glasses are now sometimes used for the finest saké and one finds them used increasingly for saké tasting. It is the custom for guests to serve others rather than themselves. Another traditional drinking vessel is the wooden masu. This is a small square box usually made of Japanese cedar, and was originally used as a one-portion measure for rice.

Saké at home is best kept refrigerated or in a cool cupboard.  If stored at room temperature it is best enjoyed within a couple of months as it is believed that saké does not age well, although there are now some bottles that are considered to improve with age. After opening, a bottle of saké remains at its best a little longer than would wine, but should still be consumed as soon as possible.



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Sushi

It’s healthy food. It’s an art form. It’s impressive, and it’s iconic. People either love it or refuse to try it. Its skill lays in assembly rather than cooking. Sushi is special. Sushi

Vickie Liley is versatile to say the least. She is a recipe writer, food stylist and photographer. She is responsible for the majority of the pictures in this book and they are lovely. She has appeared on TV and radio. She has penned several other books including Asian Cooking Companion, The Complete Book of Hot and Spicy Cooking, and Simple and Delicious Dim Sum, all from Apple Press.

Sushi is becoming more popular in Britain with many supermarkets selling plastic-wrapped versions. It looks very nice and it’s probably better for you than a fat-rich sandwich or sausage roll. But sushi is all about freshness so why not make it yourself. It’s cheaper than shop-bought and you’ll notice the difference.

As I have said, it’s not complicated cooking but there are some skills to perfect. This book provides you with everything you’ll need to select the few items of necessary equipment and the ingredients. There are practical step-by-step pictures by Alan Benson that will take the fear out of the process.

In truth it’s several processes depending on the type of sushi, but you’ll soon master them and then it’s on to the recipes or more accurately the fillings. Vickie has an attractive selection of classic sushi that might be familiar to some of you. There are others that are equally authentic but new to many. Sushi isn’t all about raw fish. You will find plenty of vegetarian sushi and we won’t know if you make your own sushi filled with Marmite or strawberries. You can mix and match combinations of fillings and shapes.

The chapters include Thin-rolled Sushi, Thick-rolled Sushi, Inside-out Sushi, Hand-rolled Sushi and Stuffed Sushi. There is also a section on traditional soup to start your Japanese meal. Sushi etiquette is also discussed as well as information on appropriate drinks.

Vickie Liley illustrates a gorgeous array of delicious fresh sushi that will be a great introduction to sushi-rolling for the novice, and give inspiration to the more proficient. Sushi is also an ideal medium tfor introducing kids to food preparation. I have a young friend (I don’t insult him by calling him a kid) who mastered the art in just an evening. He presented us with a dazzling display of fish and vegetable sushi for the New Year. This book is an ideal gift for anyone interested in a stylish and guilt-free dining experience. Great value for money.

Asian cookbook review: Sushi
Author: Vickie Liley
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-252-2



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The Chopsticks Diet

I guess that just the word “diet” will have half of my dear readers turning the page (if they were able toThe Chopsticks Diet do such a thing on a website) and the other half waiting with bated breath for the next word that will change their lives completely. For those diet-haters I ask you to read on. For those who expect a magic solution for weight loss with no effort I must tell you there will never be one, but you might just find that this book helps.

Kimiko Barber is an award-winning author of books on Japanese cooking. The Chopsticks Diet is slightly different from others of Kimiko that I have reviewed. They focused on taste and some of the renowned health-giving properties of Japanese food. The Chopsticks Diet takes a slightly different and rather revolutionary approach, that of the combination of appropriate foods and the use of chopsticks.

The dishes that Kimiko offers are tempting to the taste buds and a feast for the eye. I am not a great lover of health foods that are bland and unappetising. We shouldn’t consider weight problems as an illness that can only be treated by unpleasant medicine in the shape of unpalatable meals. That just feels like punishment and reinforces the impression that we have been “bad”.

The key is in the title “Chopsticks”. If you use chopsticks to eat your food (OK, we will exclude soup) then you are bound to lose weight. You will naturally eat slower and take smaller mouthfuls and this fools you into thinking that you have eaten more than you have. Meals will be smaller but you will not feel deprived or hungry.

Yes, you could continue to eat your habitual foods with chopsticks and you would probably lose some weight, but how much nicer it is to enjoy a dish that is attractive and looks like it SHOULD be eaten with chopsticks. If you are going to make changes then have some fun.

The recipes in The Chopsticks Diet are enticing. There are just a few uniquely Japanese ingredients but they will be readily available from larger high street supermarkets, or online if you are a computer-savvy shopper. The basics are fresh vegetables, fish and noodles and will be healthful even if eaten with a fork.

The Domburi recipes are perhaps my favourite. The Chopsticks Diet has a selection of these dishes that are quick and easy to prepare. It’s rice with a variety of toppings and I think Domburi should be as well-publicised as its cousin, sushi. Egg and Spinach Domburi is comfort food Japanese style. The egg creates a sauce for the rice and gives a marvellously silky texture. A classic.

The Chopsticks Diet is a fresh and welcome approach not only to weight loss but to healthy eating in general. The recipes are stunning but not difficult. Gone are the days of cardboard crackers and calorie counters. Eat well and enjoy your food. It’s doing you good.

The Chopsticks Diet
Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-826-4 



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Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking

All you regular readers will know how I have waxed lyrical about other books by Kentaro Kobyashi and this oneCookbook review Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking will be no exception. Veggie Haven from the Easy Japanese Cooking series has all the characteristics which helped to make Donburi Mania and Noodle Comfort so appealing.

Kentaro Kobayashi is a young man with a passion for food and not just Japanese food. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon displayed his flair for the culinary arts. His mantra is “easy yet delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and has appeared on television where he showed his skill for making delicious food with little effort.

I like this man’s style. Kentaro continues to present us with delightful food with a twist. Veggie Haven has Japanese elements but it isn’t a traditional Japanese cookbook. I suspect this might be the way modern Japanese eat at home: we in the West have embraced Chinese and Indian food, and it’s certain that a Tokyo housewife might similarly enjoy, as Kentaro suggests, a hearty potato gratin or a deliciously-garnished pizza. Take the aforementioned pizza and top it with garlic and anchovies. Use a bought pizza base and you’ll have a classy lunch, light dinner or nibbles with apero in no time at all.

Some liken tofu to a tasteless bath sponge. Consider it a vehicle for robust flavours. Sweet and Spicy Fried Tofu is a simple recipe which offers a tapestry of tang that will convert even a die-hard carnivore. This is the healthy face of fast food.

The cold weather is here in the northern hemisphere so warming dishes are the order of the day. The original Chop Suey is said to have originated in America; Kentaro offers Vegetable Chop Suey. This is a tasty pot of vegetables and the addition of quail eggs helps to elevate this dish to something luxurious.

Veggie Haven is an ideal cookbook for novices who want to try something a bit out of the ordinary. The recipes are clearly written and allow the cook to arrange things in steps. There might be a collection of 3 ingredients for a sauce that can be mixed before cooking starts. Perhaps the thickener can be made in advance. For simplicity these are noted in the ingredient list rather than in the method. No need to be overwhelmed: the dishes are easy.

In the US Japanese ingredients are readily available - America has had a closer relationship with Nippon than has Europe. Here, most larger Asian supermarkets stock Japanese ingredients and there are many internet sites that will be more than happy to supply you with the goods.

Kentaro Kobyashi introduces us to his Veggie Haven. This will be a ‘must read’ not only for Japanese food lovers but for those who want to present vegetables with a difference. This might be described as fusion food but it works for me.

Asian cookbook review: Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc
Price: $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-62-0


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Serene Gardens



What vision do we have when we think of Japan? Well, in truth there will likely be a few images. If we are into asian cookbook reviewanime there will be cartoon characters. The food lovers will doubtless conjure a plate of sushi, and many others will say that a graceful geisha will be on their list. Show all of those folks a picture of a typical Japanese garden and they will all recognise it as being an iconic emblem of the culture of that country.

In fact there is more than one style of traditional garden and they are all striking and mostly low maintenance once constructed. There are the calming and minimalist Zen gardens with carefully-placed rocks adrift in a sea of precisely-raked gravel or sand. The Tea Garden can be small but full not only of plants but also structures, and perhaps the sound of water to set the scene for that important cup of tea. There is an index of plants that you will be able to find in your local garden centre, and a list of addresses for the delivery of those huge boulders as well as bamboo fences.

We are often, in Europe, limited by space and climate so perhaps the most practical garden is the Courtyard Garden. If you are lucky enough to have a larger garden then you can build this courtyard into one corner with views, perhaps, from the sitting room. Create an intimate space with some plants, rocks and moss which will grow happily in a small shady area. Don’t think for a moment that this is necessarily an easy option. You won’t need to mow it every Sunday morning but it will need to be watered frequently.

A small Zen rock garden might be a weekend project but those other gardens will evolve and mature with time. Serene Gardens – creating Japanese design and detail in the Western garden, is a manual of practical advice and ideas to enable you to turn your dream into reality.

Asian book review: Serene Gardens
Author: Yoko Kawaguchi
Published by: New Holland
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-916-2


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Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric

This is an ancient practice that seems to be very trendy now in Europe. I first came across it when a friend asian book reviewarrived from Marseille. She is a lady of impeccable taste and owns a shop filled with stylish and interesting goods. I had high hopes of a classy gift and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this square of material. “Nice,” I said, with as much enthusiasm as this confused reviewer could muster. “Just what I wanted,” I lied, but thankfully help and an explanation was at hand before I contemplated saying “This would make an exemplary family heirloom.”

Furoshiki is, just as the title implies, the ancient art of wrapping with fabric. A square of material can wrap all manner of things as well as becoming, with the use of some deft knotting, a handbag or a shoulder bag.

Gone are the days when we could go to any supermarket and expect a plastic bag for free. Many people choose to take along their own fabric bag instead of adding to landfill. A medium Furoshiki bag can hold all that a regular plastic bag could, and will look considerably more exotic. All the knots needed for a shopping bag, a backpack, a bottle carrier and a book bag are illustrated, and with a little practice you will be going out with a handbag and returning with a shopping bag, with just a little re-knotting mid-outing.

Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric is a unique book for those who want to be ahead of the trend. Nothing much to buy – just hem some squares of material and you have versatile bags that you can coordinate with your equally trendy (does anyone really use that word these days?) clothes.

Book review: Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric
Author: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Published by: New Holland
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-816-5


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Japan – Eyewitness Travel

You can travel to many countries and get by without a guidebook. You might get lost, you might wish youJapan – Eyewitness Travel had the address of a hotel that had sheets on the beds, and you might possibly even regret not taking a packed lunch... but you’ll get by. Japan is a bit more difficult to negotiate without a bit of professional advice.

Japan is full of contradiction and enigma. It’s ultra modern in so many ways but it clings to its traditions. It has a matter-of-fact attitude to nudity in the communal bath houses but remains conservative in matters of morals. It’s a country that has embraced western-style fast food but offers death-dicing fish dishes and live octopus. Comic books are celebrated but religious festivals and rituals are still practised even by the young, who will pray for good exam results (although I expect lots of western students have secretly done the same).

This is a country that has caused anxiety in many a visitor. It’s not the threat of violence or antisocial behaviour (less likely here than most other countries) it’s the fear of making a social gaff, of offending a host or a colleague. Japan – Eyewitness Travel goes some way to steering you through the problems you might encounter when meeting the locals. There are few rules to remember but it’s a good idea to know what they are before you land in Tokyo.

The Japanese are polite and understanding of foreign visitors but you’ll be less embarrassed if you can conform to the general norm of behaviour. Take shoes for example... or rather take shoes off. You’ll be able to tell when removing shoes is appropriate. There will likely be several pairs of empty ones by a door and probably a pair of slippers as well. If in doubt... watch what others do.

Japan – Eyewitness Travel doesn’t leave much to chance. Everything is discussed, from dining etiquette to bathing etiquette. You might still feel a little out of place but at least this book will enable you to interact with the Japanese and leave a positive impression. You’ll learn about culture, history and religion and be able to make your own travel itinerary. The maps are superb and the photography is marvellous.

You can read a pile of books on Japan before you go. One of them should be Japan – Eyewitness Travel. You’ll only want to take one so let it be one that will introduce you to every region of this lovely country, that will offer dates of festivals, addresses of restaurants, and a great selection of hotels. Most importantly it will offer support to enable you to feel comfortable with this unfamiliar culture. This book will whet your appetite for the trip.

Japan – Eyewitness Travel
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-1221-9 



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Tsunami – Charlotte Street

This restaurant is the haunt of many regulars who, if they are sensible, will not be spreading the word. Whorestaurant review Tsunami wants to find their favourite eatery fully booked every night of the week? There is a danger that Tsunami will be... or at least should be. If I was a selfish reviewer (and bearing in mind I want to return often) I would be carelessly forgetting to include the name of the restaurant or perhaps I might consider a misspelling to put you off the scent of this gem.

Tsunami is at the quiet end of Charlotte Street. It’s just a stone’s throw from Goodge Street station but this is a tranquil spot away from the rush of Tottenham Court Road.

It isn’t a huge restaurant. A narrow front leads to a wider area which is cosy and welcoming. The walls curve into the ceiling giving an agreeable intimate effect. The décor is minimalist without being too Zen or stark, and polished walls reflect light with a blossom motif in gold. The restaurant hints at traditional Japan but avoids the too-themed design of many a lesser establishment. Even the door handles give the impression of style.

It’s the attention to detail that is remarkable. The waiting staff are knowledgeable and engaging and take evident pride in their work. The presentation of each dish would not have been out of place in a 5-star restaurant. Each serving dish was different and thoughtfully chosen and even the paper liner for fried food was folded in the classic manner.

Nasu Goma (Grilled Aubergine with Sesame Paste) were delicious bites of piping hot pleasure. A marvellously welcoming start to a cold-weather dining experience. The hot Sake added to the warming comfort. Courgette Flowers stuffed with blue cheese served with miso dipping sauce continued the thawing. The tempura was light in both colour and texture and was a sweet counterpoint to the salty ooziness of the filling. Moreish, I’d say.

Lamb Cutlets (Organic best end lamb) grilled in Korean kimchi chilli sauce and served with daikon radish kimchi presented us with the most tender and flavourful meat. It’s one of the most popular dishes and a must-try. OK, it might not be the first dish that comes to mind when visiting a Japanese restaurant but it works.

Yellowtail Sashimi Jalapeno is a visual triumph. Thinly sliced yellowtail fish with coriander, garlic and finely sliced chilli in yuzu ponzu sauce was delicate but with a hot and spicy kick. This was another dish that seemed much favoured by the regulars.

The pièce de resistance (although there were two so I guess they would be pièces de resistance) was/were firstly the Black Cod with its sweet glaze. This was melt-in-the-mouth tender and succulent. It flaked into translucent petals at the slightest pressure of a chop stick. The second was beef. This wasn’t the Kobe beef of legend: each cow being massaged and fed beer makes for an amazingly expensive steak. This was Aberdeen Angus and one could have eaten it with a spoon. If you are a card-carrying carnivore you’ll not want to miss this. Tsunami offer two alternatives: Wasabi Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef with creamed leeks, oriental mushrooms, wasabi pepper sauce and foie gras, or Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef served with sea urchin and foie gras butter. Both are good but the foie gras butter adds a touch of creamy luxury.

The desserts made a memorable finish to a memorable meal. The Chocolate Fondant was as good as you might find in France. It moved with a sensual shimmer when poked and that’s a good sign that there really is some molten chocolate sauce inside rather than the accusing void that I have been confronted with at other restaurants. The Green Tea ice cream was vibrant and refreshing and the tangy Crème Brulée served in a lidded tea mug was a rich and decadent conclusion to a thoroughly good meal.

Tsunami is a restaurant to which I want to return. A reviewer’s palate can become jaded after a succession of evenings of food tasting but I left this restaurant with a skip in my step and renewed enthusiasm. Tsunami offered quality at affordable prices. I hope no changes are made. There is nothing to be improved upon and that is a rare accolade.

Restaurant review: Tsunami
Charlotte Street
London W1T 4PY
http://www.tsunamirestaurant.co.uk/westend.html


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Soseki Japanese Restaurant (closed)


What is a Soseki? It is a who and he was one of Japan's favourite novelists, Natsume Soseki. He lived in Londonrestaurant review over a hundred years ago, and in the two years he was here he had plenty of time to miss the taste, sight and sound of home.

Soseki offers an authentic “sight” of Japan in the most magnificently striking fashion. It truly does encapsulate all that we would expect of the Japan of a couple of centuries past. The ground floor entrance might be contemporary and anonymous but as one ascends the single flight of stairs one is wafted to another world which couldn’t be further away from the glass and steel of the Gherkin which overlooks it.

The bar is the first truly Japanese element one encounters. It has an impressive wall of bottles and a strikingly low seating area. This isn’t a high-stool-swivelling night-clubby drinking hole. It’s tasteful and charming and introduces one to the still more stunning restaurant.

Soseki have avoided mass-produced beers and wines. They have developed a considerable range of "pure rice" junmai sake, some Japanese rice beers (it's the only restaurant in the UK serving Koshihikari Echigo rice beer and Hitachino red rice ale), and rice shochu. The wines have been selected specifically to enhance the food rather than overpowering the delicate flavours.restaurant review asian

This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, tatami mats and kimono fabrics. There are intricate wooden shutters and painted ceiling panels. I wouldn’t, however, describe Soseki as “themed”; that word denotes a contrived style. There is nothing that seems artificial here. It’s more transported than themed. More engaging than engineered. This is the real thing and Natsume Soseki would have felt quite at home.

We were shown to our dining cabin. Yes, indeed, a small raised room at the end of the restaurant. There are two compartments inside this cosy and intimate space. The first holds half a dozen guests and the second was our nest for two for the evening.  A calm vantage point to watch the sushi preparation area and our fellow diners. Many of those guests were themselves Japanese: ex-patriots are a reassuring sign when one is looking for authenticity of any ethnic cuisine.

We settled ourselves in our cocoon of a booth and perused the bill of fare. The menu at Soseki is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of 'kaiseki-kappo' or Japan’s haute cuisine. This fashion of cooking originated in celebrated restaurants in 19th century Osaka. But unlike European haute cuisine, the Japanese rely solely on light and fresh ingredients and outstanding presentation. No heavy and cream-laden sauces here.

Perhaps it’s not so much a menu as a suggestion of courses of different cooking styles. The main ingredients are what’s best that day. The finest quality fish from sustainable sources. Soseki has received numerous awards including the prestigious Green Apple Award for the Environment, and the RSPCA Award for Animal Welfare. You can enjoy the best south-coast seafood without guilt. The use of seasonal fruit and vegetables ensures that the dishes change often. One could visit frequently and find new culinary creations to tempt.asian restaurant review

Sakizuke appetizer was a confection of quail, both egg and flesh. A punch of chilli heat was unexpected but delicious. The shimmer of gold leaf added to the impression of opulence and held great promise for the rest of the meal.

Wan Mono Soup served in a lidded lacquered bowl had great flavour. Sashimi was a collection of raw fish and in this case salmon, yellowtail, sea bass and sole. A simple dish which relies on quality for its success.

Mushimono will be your steamed dish and this evening it was savoury custard. This was a triumph of texture and subtle taste. Served in a lidded ceramic pot resembling a small boulder - thoughtful and amusing.

Yakimono, a grilled dish, was tender slices of lamb with aubergine, asparagus and edamame beans. You’ll not find
asian restaurant reviewbetter lamb than this: still pink and juicy and with plenty of flavour from the flame. Memorable.

Agemono is a deep-fried dish comprising fish and vegetables with a dipping sauce. The battered foods were clean-tasting with a perfect crunch. Served on traditionally-folded paper mimicking white mountain peaks silhouetted
against the black pottery. Comforting.

The Palate Cleanser today was a small shallow glass bowl of sweet and refreshing melon juice. The drinking vessel was presented resting in a wooden dovetailed box. The authentic cup of choice for sake, I believe.

Nigiri and Maki Sushi was a beautiful presentation of rice and fish in all its guises. A traditional platter of food that was uncommonly good and served with refreshing salad, flavourful miso and pickles. A surprisingly substantial conclusion to the main courses.

Dessert of fresh fruit and Japanese-inspired ice cream served in a martini glass was welcome and a great counterpoint to the seafood, wasabi and soy sauce of previous dishes.
Chocolates made at Soseki will soon be on the sweets menu. Another indication of the Soseki attention to detail. Those specific chocolates might change but be assured that they will all be remarkable.

We arrived as exhausted westerners and felt almost clumsy in the refined Soseki environment. We were amazed but not intimidated. We left with bows to the waiting staff and chefs. Relaxed, impressed and much the richer for the experience. This might not be the cheapest Japanese food around but I venture to suggest that it’s value for money. We will return and sit at the sushi bar, enjoy a flask of fine sake and unwind anew. I cannot fault Soseki in any regard. It’s conveniently situated but easily overlooked. Make the effort to seek it out at the foot of the Gherkin. I promise you will not be disappointed.

Soseki Japanese Restaurant
20 Bury Street, 1F, London EC3A 5AX
Tel: 020 7621 9211
Fax: 020 7621 9210

Opening times:
Lunch Monday to Friday Midday - 2.30pm
Dinner Monday to Friday 6 - 10pm

 

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Itsu – Notting Hill Gate

I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy the experience. For me, it’s all about the food: a themed restaurant makes me suspicious. Why is this diner being distracted? Something wrong in the kitchen? Iffy ingredients, perhaps?

Yes, Itsu is very definitely themed. It has moving food. Revolving dishes. No, the waiters don’t spin plates for the
restaurant reviewamusement of the guests, there is a conveyor belt which carries food past the assembled and seated company. There are still waiting staff who will escort you to your seat at either kitchen carousel or comfy banquette. Those same Itsu employees will take your drinks order, explain the method of food selection, and they will whisk away the empties.

This turned out to be one of the most laid-back and chilled lunchtimes I have spent in a long while. I now realise why this style of dining really works. It’s the ideal spot for lone lunchers – those who have their dietary horizons set somewhat higher than a curly sandwich or a sugar-laden muffin. I have never felt comfortable eating alone and I know many others who have the same inhibition. Itsu provides an environment of anonymity. One can find a place at the raised kitchen carousel, watch the food preparation for diversion and even engage in witty conversation with the black-clad chefs, who are more than happy to customise your selection with a little extra ginger, a ring or two of additional chilli.
restaurant reviewThere is a first-floor dining room which has a more formal but quirky atmosphere. Armchairs, mirrors and a goat’s head all help to make this a sought-after venue for those who want to enjoy Itsu food in a sophisticated environment.

I have said that the food is, for me, the most important part
of any restaurant visit. Itsu did not disappoint. This is quality food and the presentation is faultless. It doesn’t come fresher or faster than this. One sees the chefs chop and plate the dishes. They are placed on the moving belt and all you need to do is make your choice from a wide range of fish, meat and vegetable offerings.

Perhaps those dishes could be more accurately described as plates, for that’s just what they are: saucer-sized
plates with coloured rims which indicate the cost of that item. The food meanders by with the saucers balanced on name-emblazoned pedestals. Chop-sticks, serviettes, spoons, wasabe and soy sauce are all to hand, so nothing more to do than grab the food and enjoy.

That food is fresh, well-flavoured and delicious. Visit with a
friend and you’ll be able to share many of the dishes. Myrestaurant review guest chose to start his meal with something other than the conveyor-belt fare. Yes, there is a selection of hot favourites, like tempura. Itsu has a “famous” Chicken and Coconut Soup. It’s the colour of peanut butter but a rich and warming flavour which is truly quite outstanding. A great start to a meal on those days when the sun refuses to put in an appearance. There is also the traditional Miso Soup for less than £2.00 for a serving.

One of the best value plates here is the Fine Green Bean and Kombu Roll. Once again they didn’t breach the £2.00 barrier. These two hearty rounds of rice and vegetables were attractive and delicious and you would walk away pounds poorer if you ordered them in any other Japanese restaurant. These were one of the bargain white-rim options.


We meandered through half a dozen or so plates of various styles of rice, fish and vegetable confections. Those passing dishes are enticing. The Salmon Sushi was fresh and substantial. The Crab California Maki Roll is well-worth trying; but the stars of the carousel were the two Vietnamese dishes. These were both striking to behold and generous of
restaurant review filling. The Crystal Roll with Fresh Crab was delicate and light. The Crystal Roll with Roast Duck should be a signature dish: the meat was cooked and shredded and packed along with vegetables to present a winning choice.

You might want a pud after sampling the savouries, and Itsu offers some non-Japanese sweets. My guest selected Seasonal Fruit on White Chocolate Yoghurt. The red berries were contrasted against snowy drifts, an idea which I’ll shortly be stealing. A crème brulée had my name on it. It might not be Japanese and at under £3.00 it was great value, but it was also one of the best executed I’d encountered in years . Specks of vanilla bean and a creamy texture were topped with the traditional crunchy sugar crust. I’ll grab that again on future visits.

Itsu ticks so many boxes: quality of food, thoughtfully sourced fish from sustainable stocks, value for money, and a unique ambiance. I might have arrived with a few cynical thoughts, but I left a convert.

Restaurant opening times:
Mon - Thurs:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm
Fri:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 11pm
Sat: 12 noon to 11pm
Sun & Bank Holidays: 12 noon to 9pm

Itsu, 100 Notting Hill Gate, London W11 3QA
Phone: 020 7229 4016
Fax: 020 7727 5653


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